Thread: my 357, questions, estimates, opinions

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Block is a 4 bolt goodwrench 350 that was bored .040,hot tanked, arp cap bolts, align honed, deck surfaced, painted ect.
Got a eagle rotating assembly kit flat tops just under 10:1 , had my machinist verify clearences, balance, and assemble. Eagle Street Performance Rotating Assemblies B13402E040 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing now this kit says "suitible for applications up to 500hp" and I dont think il be making no 500hp.. (anyone give me a hp estimate?)but what they dont set is a rpm guideline so that's one concern of mine especially with the cast crank and pistons so input there would be helpful, my hope is to have my combo make 400whp+ with minor changes.

Heads are a summit aluminum 64/200cc with 2.02/1.60 valves supposed to be a china cast brodix ik200, 258ish cfm .500-600 lift thats what iv read and was told by a summit rep plus I did a little cleanup. Summit Racing Street & Strip® Cylinder Heads for Small Chevy SUM-162111 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing I was surprised by quality/price point.

Cam is a roller by comp with Howards lifters 230/236 @ .050, .510/.520 lift(with 1.5 I have 1.6 rockers what's my lift?) COMP Cams Xtreme Energy Retrofit Camshafts 12-432-8 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing

Carb and intake also by summit, 750cfm vac sec and stage 2 intake 1206 port matched, Summit Racing® Intake Manifold, Carburetor, and Air Cleaner Pro Packs 03-0207 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing

Exhaust is 305 manifolds and joke piping used for a road trip, headers when the snow goes away...

Also engine is internally balanced but I'm using a large journal 327 balancer and 305 flywheel, is it neccecary to change these to neuturally balanced components? Hp estimate now? With headers? Possibly different intake? safe shift/max rpm? Is 400whp possible with my combo or with under 500 in parts?(not including exhaust)
sorry for my incredibly long post I tried to describe engine the best I could in hopes for an hp estimate and learning what is safe, thanks in advance to anyone who has a word of info to share

The B13455E-030 you referenced first is a 383 kit. The B13402E-040 you referenced is a 357 kit. Which one did you end up with? Who is the piston manufacturer and what is the part number? What I'm after is the compression height of the piston. If 1.560", static compression ratio with zero deck and Fel-Pro 1003 head gaskets would be 10.13:1. The cam closes the intake valve at 41 degrees after bottom dead center @0.050" tappet lift and will generate an 8.61:1 dynamic compression ratio on the Keith Black calculator. With a zero deck and the 0.041" squish afforded by the 1003 gasket, this should make a good combination that will run happily on pump gas. I would, however, sling those 1.6 rockers over the fence and re-fit with 1.5 rockers. Those fosdick extreme energy cams are tough enough on the valvetrain as it is, without adding the strain of 1.6 rockers to the mix. Scorpion makes a nice set of aluminum full rollers....
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sc...model/scorpion

For the same money, you could have gotten a set of Pro-Filer 185's that would measurably outflow the heads you have. I would estimate 430 to 450 hp at the flywheel with what you have now. With a set of Pro-Filer 185's, you could have made upwards of 500.

I'd use an 8" damper with the matching timing cover. Call these guys and talk with them about what would be best.
http://www.damperdoctor.com/
For a neutral flexplate, I'd choose one that is SFI certified. It will be thicker material and less likely to crack.

Use this tutorial to nail the timing.....
http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...op_dead_center

And this one for valve adjustment.....
http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...stment_SBC/BBC

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It's the 357 ci kit b13402e040 I'm not sure how I linked the 383 one. Pistons are speed pro, part # h345dcp040, 1.560 comp ht, head gaskets are standard blue felpro out of a rebuilders kit not sure on part#, rockers I got on the cheap only reason there 1.6s, and profilers would have cost me almost 250$ more to my door than the summit heads(price shipping to alaska, most cast iron/alum heads end up costing the same after shipping lol), timing and valve lash were set by my engine builder, for right around 4000$ including machine work for an all new motor (-block lol) I don't think I did to bad right? even if it is on the low end of ur 430-450 guess, and thanks for the damper and flywheel suggestions theyl be one of the first things to get changed out when snows gone, motor only has 750 miles on it lol

Any suggestions as far as the max safe rpm? (Hopefully higher then my cam will make power), other tricks i can try go.get more power before I make the.trip ( 400miles) to the only dyno in state? Iv been considering a new.intake, air gap or.single.plane maybe? Whatever mods i do tho.I don't want to hurt mpg... car got 23mpg on its.first 500 mile trip.

Making more horsepower and getting better miles per gallon don't usually go hand in hand. 23 mpg is nice!

Forgot to mention that mpg is going to drop alot when cars done, car has a t5 and 2.73s in the back the tall gears are really annoying, going either 4.11 or 4.56 when the t56 shows up In my life. And yes horsepower and mpg when doNE correctly actually does = more mpg, because higher performance engines have a much higher volumetric efficiency have faster cleaner more complete combustion in a smaller combustion chamber think about that too, air fuel ratios must still be met, when you have a higher compression ratio your combustion area has less air volume ie requires less fuel, and that all comes into play that's why all the new motors coming out are back up to 10-11:1 compression, and the new v8s are getting respectable mileage AND making more power, look back to the 80s, an 8:1 350 with a cam that doesn't open the valves long enough to let it clear it's lungs? That's why those motors puked all over themselves lol

Originally Posted by ak99669

Any suggestions as far as the max safe rpm? (Hopefully higher then my cam will make power), other tricks i can try go.get more power before I make the.trip ( 400miles) to the only dyno in state? Iv been considering a new.intake, air gap or.single.plane maybe? Whatever mods i do tho.I don't want to hurt mpg... car got 23mpg on its.first 500 mile trip.

The dyno should determine at what rpm your engine makes maximum power so your shift point can then be determined. I would not advise changing anything at this point. An airgap intake will not gain you much and a single plane intake may help top end power but at the expense of low end torque. That is not a good tradeoff for a street-driven car which spends the majority of its life below 3000 rpm.

I agree with Lynn, and would add that you ought to consider your total drive line vs intended use when you're looking at your rear gear ratio. Picking out a set of gears is one of the critical decisions you'll make for long term reliability, performance and efficiency. I don't see where you've mentioned what transmission you're running, and the other key component is your rear tire diameter measured as accurately as possible - best way is to inflate the tires to your normal pressure, chalk a line on one, then roll to put the line at dead bottom and mark a line on the pavement. Roll one revolution, stopping w/line dead bottom and measure between the lines on the ground. Divide by PI and you've got your true OD. An inch in OD makes a difference. Once you get that dyno run it will also show you the lowest rpm where you're getting up on your torque curve. Pick your cruise rpm, and set your rear gear ratio accordingly.

Originally Posted by ak99669

when you have a higher compression ratio your combustion area has less air volume ie requires less fuel

Sort of, but not exactly. The smaller volume of the chamber in a high-compression motor means that there is more squeeze on the air/fuel that is drawn into the cylinder and combustion chamber with the intake valve open. More squeeze increases the volumetric efficiency of the motor, allowing more power and more mileage to be produced from the same amount of fuel that might be used in a low-compression motor.

Originally Posted by ak99669

and that all comes into play that's why all the new motors coming out are back up to 10-11:1 compression, and the new v8s are getting respectable mileage AND making more power

Advances in combustion chamber design are mostly responsible for allowing current-day motors to use higher static compression ratios, resulting in fuel-efficient and mileage-friendly operation. Do some reading on Sir Harry Ricardo. Much of the advance in CC design results from his experiments prior to WWII. Please read through this wikipedia article about him......
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Harry_Ricardo

Originally Posted by ak99669

look back to the 80s, an 8:1 350 with a cam that doesn't open the valves long enough to let it clear it's lungs? That's why those motors puked all over themselves lol

Due to pressure from the Feds to get better mileage and cleaner emissions, the car makers were scrambling to find a formula that would satisfy all parties involved, while designing the motors they produced to run on cat pizz fuel mandated by the Feds. That's what finally lead them to electronic fuel injection, roller tappet camshafts and higher static compression ratios, which resulted in higher thermal efficiency, again, due to the tighter squeeze on the mixture.

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Transmission is a borg t5 5spd mannual, with hopes of going to a t56 6spd by the time snow hits again. and this isn't a daily driver so i thnk the lower gears will be fine with the overdrive trans, I'm thinking the 4.11s because mostly city stoplight fun and strip maybe auto x this summer , and i guess I'll leave everything where it's at for now.except get some exhaust on it before dyno days, I havnt ran motor higher than 5800 but thinking its only guna make power slightly higher then that but I guess wel have to wait and see

Car was originally 3.73s but someone swapped to the way higher 2.73 gears before they blew factory 305 up. I wishould they were atleast in that range overdrive useless unless ur going 70+ lol it just idling at any speed lower and cam lopes the whole car... lol