Thread: 358 build questions?

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Originally Posted by camaro8484

hey guys, pulled my motor out of the camaro. previous owner starved it of oil i believe. pickup was laying in bottom of pan. wristpins pretty much welded them selves per say to the pistons. i couldn't even move any besides one on the rod!. anyway it was already bored 40 over. so i have some questions on the build. its a straight street motor no strip time will be on it. don't plan on revving the crap out of it..

the guy building my motor is getting all the bottom end im not sure on brand yet, will update with that when find out.

so so far its going to be
3970010 block 4 bolt main.
going 60 over
new pistons i know they will be hypereuretic.
new crank rods bearings

pretty much my question is which intake and cam do you guys think will be best with AFR eliminators either 180 or 195.
im looking to be close to 400 hp thats my goal. need input for a good cam and intake to match up with the heads thanks!

AFR's, in my opinion, are the finest heads available, but there are other offerings in the marketplace that will make plenty of power for less money, assuming you're not Daddy Warbucks. Currently, I like Pro-Filers. Fitted with hydraulic roller cam springs, assembled and ready to bolt on for under $1100 for the set of 2, I would choose the 180/185cc intake runner volume and 70cc combustion chamber volume for a 360 Chevy build. (a +0.060" 350 is a 360).
SBC 23 Degree Cylinder Heads

Use these pistons....
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-17350-60
They feature a generous-sized squish pad and the proper 1.560" compression height.

Take the bare block to the machine shop and have the operator check the main bearing bore for all holes being round and parallel with each other. This is the basis of the motor. If the mains aren't valid, nothing else will be either. Correct as necessary through either align-hone or align-bore process. Register the block on the main saddle and cut the block decks to 9.000". That's the dimension of your stack of parts and will result in a zero-deck block where the piston crown is exactly even with the block decks with the piston at top dead center. (1/2 the stroke is 1.740", rod length is 5.700", piston compression height is 1.560". Add these together and find 9.000".) Building the motor in this fashion will result in the thickness of the head gasket describing the squish. I will recommend a Fel-Pro 1003 composition gasket with a compressed thickness of 0.041". This is the gasket that AFR recommends.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fel-1003


Let's run the static compression ratio......we must know that before we can choose a cam....
.7854 x 4.06 x 4.06 x 3.48 x 16.387 = 738.3 cc's in the cylinder.
70 cc's in the combustion chamber.
0 in the piston deck height. (zero deck)
6 cc's in the piston crown.
9.1 cc's in the compressed gasket.
Total cc's, 823.4
Subtract cylinder cc's from total cc's (823.4 less 738.3) and find 85.1 cc's
Divide total cc's by 85.1 (823.4 / 85.1) and find 9.68:1 static compression ratio with a 0.041" squish.
I'd match up this SCR with this cam.....
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hrs-113215-08
and these lifters.....
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hrs-91164n
to produce an 8.64:1 dynamic compression ratio.

I'd use a 2-piece Cloyes front cover, with built-in adjustable cam button to control lateral movement of the cam and also to gain quick access to the front of the cam to change bushings to either advance or retard the camshaft to your liking after you get the car on the road and determine that it needs either more bottom end or more top end.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/clo-9-221
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hrs-94505

Induction would be a high-rise, dual-plane intake manifold such as a Edelbrock 7101 or Weiand 8150 or Professional Products 52021, mounting a 750 vacuum-secondaries carburetor. Top the carb off with a 14" x 4" air filter assembly so that the motor can breathe.

Headers should be 1 5/8" diameter, long-tube, equal length with a 3/8" flange thickness to prevent the flange from curling up from the exhaust heat and spitting out the exhaust gaskets. You get what you pay for. Fabricate an H pipe or an X pipe immediately after the collectors.

Valve adjustment procedure.....
http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...stment_SBC/BBC

Validating your harmonic damper......
http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...op_dead_center

Use a 10" converter such as this....
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g2702-1/overview/

For ignition timing, put 17 degrees initial in at the crank and 17 degrees in the weights, all in by 2800. Use the vacuum cannister of your choice, plugged into manifold vacuum. Crane makes a nice adjustable unit with a stop device that fits into the distributor.

This motor should easily reach your 400 hp goal, and then some.

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