Thread: LT intake manifold modification for distributor

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Roger-----there are several ways of triggering the ignition , it might be just with a regular dist and coil with the advance curve set from weights /springs or up to being triggered by a system like the Fast stuff where actually the spark trigger is set at quite an advance setting( 50-60*) and the system retards the spark event to the setting programmed -------The minimum required is a crank position sensor which can be a simple pick up at the dampner or flywheel. Some of ( probably all) of the latest systems have reluctor wheels on one end of the crank ( most rear counterweight) of around 50-60 notches with one unique pattern to differentiate # 1 tdc-------
On Robins car I intend to use the trigger up front and use the OB2 PCM with just CAT deletes and maybe speed density-probably what ever Corey wants to tune it to----Did I tell you that he is now working at Victor/Dana research center?


Duece-------putting one of these manifolds on the earlier engines allows a well designed EFI to be adapted to early engine however there is no thermostat housing at the front and you have to either weld some fitting bosses in place or use a fabricated piece on the front of the head as these are designed for a reverse flow coolant routing on the LTs.


And as far the appearance of the fab work-------there is a thin line to walk-------one goal is so its not ugly , another well fitted and nice professional looking work, and another---invisible to modification but maybe a slight trace of something a little different from anything the viewer has seen stock leading him to believe somethings been done----
For me-------it gets more difficult to live up to the bar that I have historily been compared to every year as I get older------but it will be good enough that I won't get docked any points at any show I might enter and may or not be pointed out in any Magazine article----

Originally Posted by jerry clayton

Roger-----there are several ways of triggering the ignition , it might be just with a regular dist and coil with the advance curve set from weights /springs or up to being triggered by a system like the Fast stuff where actually the spark trigger is set at quite an advance setting( 50-60*) and the system retards the spark event to the setting programmed -------The minimum required is a crank position sensor which can be a simple pick up at the dampner or flywheel. Some of ( probably all) of the latest systems have reluctor wheels on one end of the crank ( most rear counterweight) of around 50-60 notches with one unique pattern to differentiate # 1 tdc-------
On Robins car I intend to use the trigger up front and use the OB2 PCM with just CAT deletes and maybe speed density-probably what ever Corey wants to tune it to----Did I tell you that he is now working at Victor/Dana research center?

Thanks Jerry, I'm aware that there are lots of options for triggering the ignition, and my question was more to what's your plan, since you seemed to be glossing over that key point, but were saying that you're retaining the OEM EFI. As they say, the devil's in the details, and it sounds like the answer is that you're taking care of the distributor move and then looking to Corey for the details on what he'll need to make it work. If only we all had that Corey resource available!

Roger sorry if misleading but I've been discusting different options for the reason to do this-
On Robins car, it will stay pretty much stock except will have headers I'll build and no cats-------so delete cats, and also since its a 96 OB2 system and they run real good, I may only do away with a couple features and go speed density instead of the mass air flow which however works real good-----------In our family we've had 2 of these cars, I had a 92 vet and Corey had 94 Camaro-both got totaled with 2 miles of home-------


they ran good, torque, any gas you put in them, good milage, etc-------


However, the units that I do for someone else can do whatever they want they just have one common trait-gets rid of opti----------I'm moving mine so I can complete my bracket package for the low mount alternator and a/c-water pump is cam driven so no belt/pulley on it-cleans up the radiator to block area---and using the Tauras /Lincoln elect fan-------

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