Thread: GM Vortec heads
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07-04-2004 09:13 AM #1
Here is a run down on the engine in my 32 Ford roadster:
76 Chevy two bolt block bored .040 over and "zero" decked.
Vortec heads.
Edelbrock Performer intake, carb, and RV cam.
KB dished pistons
FelPro 1003 head gaskets (.039 thick)
Estimated CR is 9.2/1 (per the KB calculator).
Runs fine on 87 gas. Think the tight quench has something to do with that.
Lots of torque. I am running a 350 transmission and 3.25 gears. At speed it feels like it wants another gear. So I think it would perform well with a 3.00 or 2.80 rear gear.
What I don't like about the Vortec heads: Valve covers and intake do not really look all that "taditional". If I wre doing it again I would consider street replacement heads. The Moon valve covers I used cost $100 more than the same style for older heads. Also, if you plan to run a high lift cam you will need about $150 in machine work, $80 iworth of stronger springs, and $20 worth of new seals. All in all, I dont think the Vortec heads are that great of a bargain.
Now for the good news. Chevy is offering a cast iron Vortec head with both vave cover patterns and both intake manifold patterns. They are fore the races and sell for about $600 a pair bare. With valves and springs they are competitive with after market cast iron performance heads.
Stay away from the older heads. I have a set of Power Pack heads in the shop that are pretty much junk. They don't have hardened seats and the valves have literally eaten there way into the heads. Any old time cast iron head is going to have the same problem sooner or later. Heads from later, unleaded gas era cars, have hardened seats. If you are going to us an OEM head make sure you get ones with hardened seats. It may not be an issue with cars that are only raced. But if you are building for the street you need hardened seats.An Old California Rodder
Hiding Out In The Ozarks






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