Thread: I need help with my Chevy 355 fueling

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How much of a stall converter do you have and what is your rear end gear ratio. A 66' Bel Air is on the heavy side and to get it to "shat and get" from a stop will take some gear and a bit of a stall converter regardless of your carb. The double pumper 650 should be fine and I think your advance is good too. I'd probably gear it with sometinng near a 3.73 ratio range at least. Possibly a little lower. A 3500 rpm stall converter should help as well. Also a 2 plane intake manifold gives more bottom end torque as well but the Torker II single plane manifold should be fine if you are running lower gears in a heavy car.

I don't know who told you that a Holley will take 9-10 psi, but he should be tied to a pole and caned.
Tee off at the carb inlet and run a copper line back to the firewall, then up past the hood lip and onto the cowl. Temporarily mount a liquid-filled, 0-15 psi mechanical fuel pressure gauge onto the cowl with tie-wraps or duct tape or whatever. It's only temporary until you get the pressure under control. Old Stromberg 2-barrels would withstand about 2 1/2 psi, modern day 4-barrels will tolerate between 5 and 6 psi. Don't just put a regulator in the system until you rig up this gauge and can monitor the pressure through the windshield as you drive. Pull it back to 5 psi and I think you'll have a completely different critter on your hands. Any more pressure than that can blow past the needle and seat and blow raw fuel into the intake manifold, creating a tuning nightmare. A carburetor is a carburetor, not fuel injection. You cannot make more power with a carb by raising the pressure.