We go thru a lot of Dart SHP sbc---they are a very good piece---splayed main caps, you can go to 4.200 on the bore and 4 inch stroke--blind bolt holes in the deck surface so no coolant leaks around studs---and they are 35 lbs lighter than the Dart race blocks---they have fuel pump boss and are machined so you can do the roller lifter/dogbones and a main priority oiling system
And Tango I can drop out what ever you might want at no shipping cost!!!
Nice block for a race car . But most of the cars you will see running around on the street won't need it . But I am sure it's much easier for Engine guy's to build up one of these then prep an old G.M Block .
Dart 31161211 - Dart SHP Special High Performance Engine Blocks - Overview - SummitRacing.com
Jerry/Pat,Quote:
Originally Posted by tango
I would expect that even with a brand new Dart block it's not simply wash it off and assemble, that you still go through all of the same steps to ensure that everything is straight, true and in right relationship to centerlines, but that you likely don't have to do as much to bring it into tolerance. Is this a true statement?
The bore is about .010 undersize allowing final honing to set piston clearance----they are align honed from dart and decks are at spec--
The savings really come from the work necessary on a used engine---draining(seems everytime a customer brings there cherry engine it isn't completely drained and we end up will oil/antifreeze all over the floor, a bag of oil dry later----then upon the disassembly we are checking sizes, clearances of everything (sorta compares with measuring one for assy), We really would rather build an engine from a core block that we get from a supplier as it really eliminates a lot of head aches---
On a core block, after thermal cleaning and shot blasting and general overall checkout for obvious defects, we start off with decking the deck surfaces to spec with a fixture that allows equal measuring to make sure it is square to crank centerline and 90 to each side--then it gets bored in a fixture that aligns off the mains--then to honing---if the CK10 is set for doing cylinders we will do at least 3 or 4 before we change to doing the mains----on the blocks that get converted to billet caps there is a lot of time fitting caps, drilling and tapping block plus boring the new caps to just undersze where they are then align honed to finish specs---of course there may be several times the block is in the washer to remove honing oil, etc and then they will go into milling machine for rough clearance for rods clearance for strokers( don't do many stock strokes with so many cranks available) In addition to the block prep, there is the balancing of the rotating assy and pin fitting of the pin ends of the rods and pistons, etc
Further on assy there is ring end gap setting, bearing clearancing, etc, piston to valve