ID Help on 350 ~ front #'s ground off... case # missing digit?

Hi all,
I bought a 69 blazer with an engine in it that I want to sell (the engine, not the blazer), but I'm trying to figure out what it is so I can sell it properly.
The guy I bought it from isn't the person that installed it. So he wasn't much help.

The #'s on the front were ground off during a rebuild (before I came to own it) and the case # on the back (driver side) is missing a digit?
It has 970010 and there is no apparent grinding scrapping or other such damage to the area that is apparent / that would be where the missing lead digit would have been.

** A) is it unusual for a digit to be missing?
** B) anyone have any ideas on the engine?

If it's a "3" 970010, I would know that it was a 350 between 69 and 79 (I'm assuming 350 based on the larger harmonic balancer but could be mistaken).

The date stamp is a J249 which tells me fall of either '69 or '79.
The heads are '71 882's, so they weren't original for that engine.
and the carb's #'s put it on a '71 vette.

sell the carb and thru in the res of the engine

Not sure what Jerry was trying to tell you ? But that 3970010 Block is a 4" Bore Block some were 4-Bolt Mains . Most of the ones I have pulled pans off were 2-Bolt Main 350's with cast Cranks . Now that Block was also used in Trucks with 4-Bolt Main Caps . And in Corvette / Z/28's early 350 L-T1's and L-82's with all the good Forged stuff . Them 882 Heads started to be used in 1974 76cc Chambers the 1974 L-82 350's used them with Larger Valves . Some 400 SB's used them with steam Holes and Larger 1.60" Exhaust Valves .

I sold a corvette carb and intake manifold for $750-----do that and leave the heads and block bolted to them----

Yeah right ! What and the Heck are you talking about ? glennsexton likes this. Ha-Ha ?

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Originally Posted by tango

Yeah right ! What and the Heck are you talking about ? glennsexton likes this. Ha-Ha ?

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Clear to me. He got an offer of $750 for a 'Vette Intake & Carb, and says that if you can get the $750 for this one toss in the engine with the deal. Seems pretty good to me, but what do I know.;)

Nothing much more then another plain Jane SBC.... If anybody offers you more then core value, think I'd just take the money and run

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Originally Posted by tango

Not sure what Jerry was trying to tell you ? But that 3970010 Block is a 4" Bore Block some were 4-Bolt Mains . Most of the ones I have pulled pans off were 2-Bolt Main 350's with cast Cranks . Now that Block was also used in Trucks with 4-Bolt Main Caps . And in Corvette / Z/28's early 350 L-T1's and L-82's with all the good Forged stuff . Them 882 Heads started to be used in 1974 76cc Chambers the 1974 L-82 350's used them with Larger Valves . Some 400 SB's used them with steam Holes and Larger 1.60" Exhaust Valves .

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I followed what he was saying... But already sold the carb. Not for as much as he did, but a little.
So, my question is on the case #. It doesn't have that lead "3" on it.
... just the 970010
Is it normal for the case # to be missing a digit?
Or is this a # that I simply am not finding. ~ meaning, I found the 3970010, but not a 970010.

:HMMM:

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Originally Posted by Dave Severson

Nothing much more then another plain Jane SBC.... If anybody offers you more then core value, think I'd just take the money and run

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I posted it for $800 ~ and stated I'd take $600 if they come pull it...
But would be happy with just about anything reasonable. I've already broke even selling off the extra body parts from the '69 blazer.
... and have another full create engine ('80) with turbo 350 and a 205 transfer case that I'm trying to peddle as well.

I'd just like to make enough to pick up a nice set of headers and maybe cover some of the break line replacement work that I'm gonna have to do.
I have a recently rebuilt '95 police impala 350 with turbo and fuel injection.
... and in my '69 blazer, I can drop the emitions crap too!

Seems like a reasonable price to me! With the new Dart SHP blocks selling at such a reasonable price, not a lot of reason to stick a bunch of money in machining costs, etc. into a stock block when a brand new, stronger, better block is available at such a reasonable price.

All that numbers stuff is important to the restoration guys, but IMO the aftermarket parts availability is such these days that sometimes the new and better parts don't really cost much more then reconditioning the old not as good parts!!!!!

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Originally Posted by Dave Severson

Seems like a reasonable price to me! With the new Dart SHP blocks selling at such a reasonable price, not a lot of reason to stick a bunch of money in machining costs, etc. into a stock block when a brand new, stronger, better block is available at such a reasonable price.

All that numbers stuff is important to the restoration guys, but IMO the aftermarket parts availability is such these days that sometimes the new and better parts don't really cost much more then reconditioning the old not as good parts!!!!!

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Kewl.A Ford guy talking about Chebbies.:rolleyes::LOL:

Have you bought the first one for the 57 yet from Pat??.:3dSMILE:

Thinking back now on my 383 I do regret not going that route.

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Originally Posted by Dave Severson

Seems like a reasonable price to me! With the new Dart SHP blocks selling at such a reasonable price, not a lot of reason to stick a bunch of money in machining costs, etc. into a stock block when a brand new, stronger, better block is available at such a reasonable price.

All that numbers stuff is important to the restoration guys, but IMO the aftermarket parts availability is such these days that sometimes the new and better parts don't really cost much more then reconditioning the old not as good parts!!!!!

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WOW! You can buy a NEW Dart SHP block with heads and everything ~ for under a grand?
Well alrighty then

Well if that is the case get me 20 of them.........no 30.:rolleyes::LOL::LOL:

The dart and world blocks are not that cheap plus you have the shipping cost . And yes they still need true-ing up . But sure if a Guy want's a stronger engine that's going over 450 H.P it's the way to go . Same as them 882 heads some Guys really Like them . I just sold a 350 with a set of them on it that ran good had a new cam pushrods and rockers with an old Torker intake on it sold for $600.00 . Lot's of Folks called for it . So they do sell fast . But if you have a well worn out set of heads Like the 882's . It's best not to rebuild them and buy a set of World S/R Castings . Them old chevy blocks are fine for under 450 H.P and much cheaper to build then a New block .

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Originally Posted by Infidel Edition

WOW! You can buy a NEW Dart SHP block with heads and everything ~ for under a grand?
Well alrighty then

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Where did I say you could buy a Dart block for under a grand???? Merely an option I thought you might want to consider before sticking a bunch of money into a stock block and having it break on you when the horsepower level gets too high... But hey, if running cheap, worn out junk is your style, more power to you!!!!

I've gone fast in Chevy's, Ford's, and MoPars for a whole bunch of years and found that often parting with the extra $$$$ for new parts is a good investment into longevity in the future.....

Sorry Dude, I guess I didn't realize you were another one of them there SBC experts..... Far be it for me to suggest something for your consideration to you, me just being a lowly Ford guy and all.....

We go thru a lot of Dart SHP sbc---they are a very good piece---splayed main caps, you can go to 4.200 on the bore and 4 inch stroke--blind bolt holes in the deck surface so no coolant leaks around studs---and they are 35 lbs lighter than the Dart race blocks---they have fuel pump boss and are machined so you can do the roller lifter/dogbones and a main priority oiling system

And Tango I can drop out what ever you might want at no shipping cost!!!

Nice block for a race car . But most of the cars you will see running around on the street won't need it . But I am sure it's much easier for Engine guy's to build up one of these then prep an old G.M Block .

Dart 31161211 - Dart SHP Special High Performance Engine Blocks - Overview - SummitRacing.com

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Originally Posted by tango

Nice block for a race car . But most of the cars you will see running around on the street won't need it . But I am sure it's much easier for Engine guy's to build up one of these then prep an old G.M Block .

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Jerry/Pat,
I would expect that even with a brand new Dart block it's not simply wash it off and assemble, that you still go through all of the same steps to ensure that everything is straight, true and in right relationship to centerlines, but that you likely don't have to do as much to bring it into tolerance. Is this a true statement?

The bore is about .010 undersize allowing final honing to set piston clearance----they are align honed from dart and decks are at spec--

The savings really come from the work necessary on a used engine---draining(seems everytime a customer brings there cherry engine it isn't completely drained and we end up will oil/antifreeze all over the floor, a bag of oil dry later----then upon the disassembly we are checking sizes, clearances of everything (sorta compares with measuring one for assy), We really would rather build an engine from a core block that we get from a supplier as it really eliminates a lot of head aches---
On a core block, after thermal cleaning and shot blasting and general overall checkout for obvious defects, we start off with decking the deck surfaces to spec with a fixture that allows equal measuring to make sure it is square to crank centerline and 90 to each side--then it gets bored in a fixture that aligns off the mains--then to honing---if the CK10 is set for doing cylinders we will do at least 3 or 4 before we change to doing the mains----on the blocks that get converted to billet caps there is a lot of time fitting caps, drilling and tapping block plus boring the new caps to just undersze where they are then align honed to finish specs---of course there may be several times the block is in the washer to remove honing oil, etc and then they will go into milling machine for rough clearance for rods clearance for strokers( don't do many stock strokes with so many cranks available) In addition to the block prep, there is the balancing of the rotating assy and pin fitting of the pin ends of the rods and pistons, etc
Further on assy there is ring end gap setting, bearing clearancing, etc, piston to valve