Hmm – don’t know why you used dielectric grease under the module. Dielectric grease is high content silicone and works well to keep moisture out without being electrically connective. As mentioned above, use it on the rotating-weight assembly. Not a good for the underside of your module where it meets the heat sink. Should use a heat sink paste there.

Okay - let's fix this thing once and for all. Go back and read this entire post - pay special attention to Gary and Jerry then there are two things YOU MUST DO. 1) Enlist a friend (to be used a little bit later, I’ll tell you when) and 2) Purchase a six pack of your favorite beverage (again – I’ll tell you when you need this!!


As to your timing issue, you need to be absolutely certain that #1 is at top dead center (TDC). There is, or should be, a TDC or zero mark on your balancer. You’ve indicated that there may be a problem with your balancer so this might be a good time to procure a new, known good harmonic balancer. There will be other degree marks however; the TDC mark will usually be the last mark to come to the pointer on a stock balancer when the engine is rotated. It is almost always the predominate mark in term of length and will have a “0” (zero) next to it

This mark on the balancer indicates TDC of the piston in the #1 cylinder. This may or may not be on the firing stroke as the cam rotates at half crank speed, it is possible for the ignition to be 180 degrees out of phase with the crank. As such, the cam is aligned on the firing stroke of the crank only every other revolution.

There are several ways to positively guarantee the crank-to-cam phasing. If you can easily get to the #1 sparkplug, remove it and cover the hole with your finger and enlist the services of a friend to rotate the engine. As the engine approaches TDC, both valves close and compression will blow your finger away from the hole. As this happens, check the balancer. You should be close enough to TDC to see the mark. This might take several tries to get the feel for the compression but believe me, you’ll know. Once you’ve felt the compression. Rotate the engine back to the zero mark.

Now the No. 1 piston is at TDC with the cam aligned to be on the firing stroke. If the distributor were to be installed here, the spark would be retarded. Rotate the engine about 15 degrees in the direction it runs (clockwise looking at front). Rule of thumb - on a small-block Chevy, approximately 1/16 inch on the surface of the balancer (any size) is real close to 1 degree. This is not exact, but it will be close enough to start the engine. Timing tapes are available from your local parts store (or Summit) that allows you to fully degree a stock balancer.

Drop in the distributor when the crank is positioned at about 15 degrees. Remember to turn the oil pump drive so the distributor tang engages it as the distributor gear meshes with the cam gear. If done right, the rotor will point to the No. 1 terminal on the cap. This may take some time, and a bit more effort than you thought, but now the distributor will be correct and ignition timing close enough to start and adjust. When the engine fires up, adjust your timing and go for a test drive. Okay – now sit down (with the friend you’ve enlisted) and have cold one or two – depending on the thirst level. I sometimes need three – but only if I’m not going to drive anywhere for several hours!

Trust me – I’ve worked on a lot of SBC and I still need to think this through each time I remove and replace a distributor. Take your time, don’t get frustrated as we’ve all been here – you will get this!

Good Luck,
Glenn