Thread: Newby in need of help

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Greetings small block experts! I've been out of the engine building game for 20 years or so and I'm sure things have changed. I'm in need some expert guidance from the savey sbc folks here. I'm in the process of building a street engine for a '55 Bel Air. It will be a .030 over 350 4 bolt block with 041 64cc heads with 1.94/1.50 valves. Stock crankshaft and connecting rods. The car's curb weight will be 3160 as nearly as I can estimate. I plan to use a Turbo 350 with a stock converter and 3.37:1 rear end ratio. I would like to use a Q-jet since I have a good one on hand. The car will have A/C but will NOT have power steering or power brakes. I want to put together a very responsive off idle to say 5000 rpm engine that runs on pump gas for stop light stuff and cruising. I am more interested in low end performance than a lopey idle. Gas mileage is not a serious concern, but naturally a consideration. What would you recommend in the way of pistons, intake, flat tappet cam, valve springs, ignition and carburation? Many thanks in advance for your advice and recommendations.

There are thousands of recipes for building a small block Chevy, but taking you at your word, here's how I might build one for you....
Start with a '96-'00 roller block, square up the mains, then cut the decks to 9.000" block deck height. Try to find a short block that includes the hydraulic roller lifters, dogbones and spider.
I'd bore the block +0.030" and install these pistons. With the heads we're going to use, they'll give you a 9.1:1 static compression ratio.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/UEM-KB142-030/

I'd install a CompCams hydraulic roller camshaft along with the OEM roller lifters, dogbones and spider, advancing the cam 2 degrees upon installation.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-08-408-8/

I'd use these cast iron heads, installed with Fel-Pro 1003 gaskets....
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RHS-12410-01/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FPP-1003/

A 650 carb will be plenty for this combo, mounted on an Edelbrock Performer RPM intake manifold...
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-7116/
Don't be put off by the "RPM" part of it. This is the best street manifold that can be had for operation from idle to 6000. This manifold is worth 40 hp over any other short dual-plane intake such as a standard Performer. Use a 14" diameter, 4-inch tall air filter element.

1 5/8" long-tube headers of your choice. These can be worth 50-60 hp over cast iron log manifolds, so make room for them and use a quality header with equal-length runners.

RPM HP TQ
2000 148 390
2500 188 395
3000 238 416
3500 290 435
4000 331 435
4500 364 425
5000 380 400
5500 353 337
Makes good power and excellent torque on junk pump gas.
I will not recommend a flat tappet camshaft anymore. Too many of them have gone south due to the re-formulation of off-the-shelf motor oils in the last couple of years. Roller cams are pretty much bulletproof. Just clean the lifters, oil 'em, drop 'em in and drive. No break-in needed and no worries about using the wrong motor oil. Use any off-the-shelf oil.

Richard speaks the truth. If you can find a good Vortec 350 you will be miles ahead of the game. Flat tappet cams are still do-able, but roller cam engines just make so much more sense with the current oil situation, and they make more HP too , all things being equal.

Chevy put so many of these in various cars and trucks (and boats) that they have become very available and reasonable. Once you own a roller cam engine I bet you will never go back. (no breakin time required either ) I ran a 350 Vortec in my 23, with 305 heads for more compression, and it was a great engine in all respects.

Don