Thread: Tidbits for more horsepower?

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I've been looking at piston/combustion chamber coatings. Are these worth it on a weekend warrior motor?

What about paint/epoxy on the lifter valleys?

I am looking at the lifter vally "breather vents" that allow the pressure to vent, but stops the oil from draining on the cam and creating windage. I have heard good and bad about this one. What do you all think? I already have oil restrictors and a good oil pan w/windage tray and scavanger.

I am rounding off all of the sharp edges on the pistons and block. The heads combustion chambers are rounded as well. (no sharp edges)

Chamfered all of the oil passages.

I can not go super/turbo charged, and don't want to buy a $$$ rotating assembly etc so I am looking at the little things. Any one have any ideas that would help glean more HP out of this 383?

It's tough to find anything anymore that actually is worth what you have to pay for it, but here is an example. Wayne Scraba wrote this book several years ago and it can be purchased used for only $2.60 plus $3.99 shipping. It is well worth $6.59 to see what Wayne had in his head at the time. I have kept a copy since it was first released. It's real good reading material on the john and you will more than likely pick up some tips that will work for you that you had never thought of.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listi...condition=used

To answer your question though, the big increases in power will come from the intake manifold (Edelbrock RPM or Weiand Stealth for a street motor will pick up 40 hp over a stock intake) and a good set of long-tube headers, 1 3/4" primary tubing for a 383 (will pick up 40-60 hp over stock cast iron exhaust manifolds). There are other little things that fellows don't think about, such as terminating the air intake at a place where cooler air will be available, rather than pulling hot radiator air into the carb or throttle body. With a little ingenuity, you can convert an OEM air filter assembly into a high-perf piece. Install two 5 inch blower ducts into the sides of the housing and run them to cold air in front of the car. For each 10 degree drop in intake air temperature, power picks up 1%. Therefore, if you change from taking in radiator air and pick up ambient air at the front, you could conceivable drop your inlet temp by 100 degrees, adding 10% power to the motor if you change the air/fuel ratio with bigger jets, etc.