Welcome to Club Hot Rod – We’ve got several Monte lovers here so you’ll fit right in!

The fuelie “camel humps” are great heads however, you didn’t say which valves you have in your 461 heads.

The 461 and 462 heads with either 1.94/1.5 or 2.02/1.6 valves are the same castings. The only difference being the machining necessary for the larger valves and the relieving of the combustion chamber beside the intake valve for the 2.02 version.

A well built set of 461's with 2.02 intake and 1.60 exhaust valves is worth 25 to 35 horse over a stock set with 1.94/1.50 valves. These heads can definitely take .500 lift but the springs need to be correct. “Z28 springs” covers a lot and I would not want to risk bind so new springs would be in your best interest.

To make lots of RPM, you need to relieve/un-shroud the valve. A good machinist can trim the pocket (will add 2-3 cc) and you need to have screw-in studs and guide plates. Match the intake ports to your manifold and have the bowls cleaned up. Use stainless steel valves.

If you have 2.02’s and you want to invest screw-in studs and guide plates and the necessary machine work (probably $400-500) you’ll have some good heads that could handle a wide range of camshaft profiles (depending on rear end gears and tire size).

For purposes of this discussion, let’s assume you’ll shoot for about 10:1 compression ratio with flat top pistons. Much less will disappoint you in the “street strip” category. 8.5:1 is fine for a mild 305/350 that sees just daily commuter use. 11:1 can be a bit tricky on the camel squirt sold today as “premium” pump gas.

COMP Cams Thumper kit (cam, springs, retainers, locks, lifters, timing set) is K12-600-4 - 2,000-5,800 with lift of 0.479 intake/0.465 exhaust. This would be “streetable” with fairly good manners with the 2500RPM stall converter and 3:73 gears, Performer RPM intake and a 650-750cfm carb.

COMP Cams Magnum kit (cam, springs, retainers, locks, lifters, timing set) is K12-213-3 - 2,500-6,500 with lift of 0.501 intake/0.501 exhaust. This would require a taller rear end (3:90-4:11) and probably a 3000RPM stall. Couple this with a Performer RPM and a 750-850cfm and you be pleased at about 4500RPM, see God at about 5500RPM and need to change your shorts when you hit second gear at WOT (assuming your transmission is built to take this!)

This is just a thumbnail and my idea of what you “could do”. There will be others who chime in with different ideas. Lots of engine builders here who have tons of knowledge that you can use. Great thing about hot rods is there’s no single “right way” to do most things – we’ll tell you if you get to far afield and please bear in mind there are some strong opinions on this site so don’t be offended if someone disagrees with you.

Have fun,
Glenn