Quote Originally Posted by ted dehaan View Post
maybe its time to go back to the basics the first thing to check as in any electrical problem is powers and grounds the coil needs full bat. voltage in about 13volts the wire from the coil to the dist. goes to the module that is just a switching transistor it turns off and on the ground when it is on it allows power to flow through the coil to charge it then the pick up tells the module to open the magnetic field collapses and you have spark then the pick pu tells the module to close and the process is repeated so if you have full bat. voltage at the coil it is time to look at the ground make sure the dist. is grounded to the eng. and the eng has a good ground back to the battery remember a good dvom is your friend.......ted p.s. there is no magic
Yes Sir E, Ted, thats why I have 2 and dig amp probe for both ac and dc. I did check voltage to coil, dist, as well as dist ground and engine ground after problem occurs, ie right when engine shuts off, and is still hot and won't run. all that looks good. If I can muster up the energy in this hot garage I will swap dist with known good functioning unit. Down side, that will still leave me guessing between module and coil. Probably will see if they will send me module, package different than std gm. That way I'll have a spare.

Oh BTW I have chased so many grounding problems over the years, I have ground cables from engine to frame, body to frame, bat to frame, when I was a kid seamed like those extra ground straps never got put back on after an engine swap, now I know the factory put them there for good reason.