Thread: assembled short blocks

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I have considered rebuilding my current short block, which is a 283, but recently I have considered buying an assembled short block like the GM Performance Parts ZZ4 or the ZZ383. I am looking for opinions on these assembled short blocks such as are the bearing clearances within spec and is the hardware torqued properly? Are the blocks old or new 350 blocks? Are there any other recommended sellers? I only plan to cruise the car and not take it over 5000 rpms. Thanks.

Everything on those short blocks is new from GM, including the block. And they come with a warranty. For the price, they are hard to beat.

Originally Posted by mannyandlily

I have considered rebuilding my current short block, which is a 283, but recently I have considered buying an assembled short block like the GM Performance Parts ZZ4 or the ZZ383. I am looking for opinions on these assembled short blocks such as are the bearing clearances within spec and is the hardware torqued properly? Are the blocks old or new 350 blocks? Are there any other recommended sellers? I only plan to cruise the car and not take it over 5000 rpms. Thanks.

Hi there,
What have you decided about a cam and heads.
I bought a ZZ4 31000 miles ago turnkey with a
650 B/Grant carby and no problems at all..Good luck
Skyeking

Thanks for the response. I have vortec heads and am considering a cam with very little overlap to keep the torque down low to push a big car ('63 Impala). I don't need high rpms. I haven't considered the transmission yet. Maybe a 200 4R for the overdrive and the fact that it may fit w/o too much fabrication in the x-frame.

Originally Posted by mannyandlily

Thanks for the response. I have vortec heads and am considering a cam with very little overlap to keep the torque down low to push a big car ('63 Impala). I don't need high rpms. I haven't considered the transmission yet. Maybe a 200 4R for the overdrive and the fact that it may fit w/o too much fabrication in the x-frame.

Hi there,
3 all round torquers are the long standing and easy to live with cams
easyly found are 204/214 and the 214/214 and 214/224 which are
easy to run on 10* degrees static plus 22 to28*. [32 to 38* total.]
If you have a 3.23to 1 diff or faster then an O/drive IS NOT necessary
and lock up converters are just another worry with the kickdowns and
O/drive antics...The choice is yours and I suggest that you read the
B&M Auto website that show you all of the options that are on offer.
All the best with the car...[My 1974 Jag with 2 tanks of petrol weighs
in at 4300lbs..I am glad that I picked a ZZ4/355 as I Do need it.
Until later Skyeking

I prefer a "seasoned" block myself. but I found out a few years ago when I wanted a 377 SBC for a Fiero project, that I couldn't buy the parts for what I could get an assembled short block from Speedomotive. they've been around since Moses was a pup, and they still do awesome work. spotless clean inside and out, fully coated valley, and a spec sheet, including all bearing clearances, came with it. still runs great today!

YMMV,
Lot

Originally Posted by lotsatoys

I prefer a "seasoned" block myself. but I found out a few years ago when I wanted a 377 SBC for a Fiero project, that I couldn't buy the parts for what I could get an assembled short block from Speedomotive. they've been around since Moses was a pup, and they still do awesome work. spotless clean inside and out, fully coated valley, and a spec sheet, including all bearing clearances, came with it. still runs great today!

YMMV,
Lot

Hi there,
I imported a rebored 283+ from Speedo-O-Motive in 1968. The whole
assembly was fully balanced and the compression checked out alright
Put a factory allo manifold with 2x4 barrel Carter W.C.F.B carbies and
an Isky R.P.M.300 mechanical cam. The 1955 4 door Chevy got up
went quite well. All the best from Skyeking.....