Wow.... Where's the popcorn?
-Chris
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Wow.... Where's the popcorn?
-Chris
No kidding, it's gettin a little heated in here!
Corn's all we eat in texas! hahahah
good to meet you to, but im not too old. Im a ripe ol 22
I hear ya man.
2fast4u turned out to be Tango who just wanted to come here and stir the pot for reasons I cannot fathom, all offending posts have been removed, Tango's alternate account has been deleted. Let's try not to degenerate any other threads into off topic attacks.
Bill S.
OK LURCH, we can get back on subject now. I would advise purchase of the Torquers, based on dis-assembly and magnafluxing them for cracks. When you can post the piston deck height and head cc's, I'll try to help you further. If you do disassemble them and magnaflux them (highly recommended), leave them disassembled and measure the valve spring seat size. You'll want to find a set of old, stock, worn-out springs to use in breaking in the cam, then change the springs out after that to the springs recommended by the cam grinder for whatever cam you decide on.
I already bought them so lets just hope they are good i guess I am gonna need to buy some tools to tear down the heads. Any suggestions on what tools to use? I know when I do it assembled i need to fill the cylinder with compressed air.Quote:
Originally Posted by techinspector1
btw these are the heads but the guy i bought them from said they were 1.94's I am not sure guess I will have to measure that
http://www.worldcastings.com/product...ron-heads.html
Hmmmm, the tech sheet you linked says 2.02"/1.60".
This KD-912 will be easy on the wallet. You can use it to disassemble the heads as well as use it to change valve springs with the heads on.
http://www.mytoolstore.com/kd/kdengi13.html
You don't necessarily need shop air to change the springs with the motor assembled. Remove the spark plug, roll the piston down in the bore a little and fill the space above the piston with clothesline rope fed through the spark plug hole. Roll the piston back up to shmush (technical term :LOL:) the rope up against the valve heads and remove the springs.
I've heard this trick before and know folks that have been successful at it but I have also heard there can be risk of cutting the rope if it manages to get caught by a valve or coiled too much below the plug hole... something to think about. The shop air approach is "safer" in my opinion.Quote:
Originally Posted by techinspector1
-Chris
I have shop air no worries. I just need a spark plug air fitting. I have heard you can make cheap homemade ones with a air fitting old spark plug and welder.Quote:
Originally Posted by skids72
Do I really need to have the heads tested for cracks? Is this vital? Is it a major problem with cylinder heads?
It's your call.Quote:
Originally Posted by LURCHBIOTCH