350 issues

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Originally Posted by JonBoll

I know now the Harmonic needs replaced and intend to order maybe a TCI rattler or something similar.

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Unless you're going to need it to pass technical inspection at the drag strip in a car that goes 10.99 or quicker, I would think that there are less expensive alternatives. I have used and recommend Damper Doctor. They rebuild production dampers by disassembling and hydraulically pressing in new elastomeric material between the hub and inertia ring and clocking the ring to the hub, then take your old damper in exchange. Take a look at this menu and give them a call.....
http://www.damperdoctor.com/Merchant...egory_Code=CHE

Sg4356, by oil blowby I am referring to oil entering the combustion chamber due to valves staying open. It was my first adjustment and I had em a hair too tight:)
Skids72, I disassembled the carburetor and found a little trash in the fuel screen blew it out along with all passages, put everything back together and put it back on. The carb is only like a week and a half old. I installed a brand new filter inline when I put it on as well. If your pulling 5" with a heavy cam, not knowing my cam but guessing from the lopiness its a mild at least, would 10" suffice or should I push for better.
Tech, you the man! I appreciate the link and will definitely be ordering from them on payday :)

Now after pulling the carb , cleaning and blowing it out, and new base gasket; it runs but it takes a bit to get her going (like any woman fickle). Best I can get out of the vacuum is 10.5" . It runs pretty smooth with good throttle response. Kicker is, as soon as I put it in drive it dies. I am so close to ordering a new cam kit that its not even funny.

Unless your guides are bad or your running no seals I dont see oil getting into combustion chamber due to valve adjustment. Just my two cents I believe your valves are adjusted way too tight. dont mean to step on your toes but thats what i am hearing . It is real easy to over tighten with back lash method

Trust me when I say there is no toe stepping going down :) If I was worried about that I would not be here. I am pretty handy and I got this way by following suggestions and directions. That is why I'm here. There is more knowledge here than I could possibly have especially since this is my first build. I've dealt with 2 strokes but this is a lot more involved. Body work is a stronger point for me than the engine itself. I'd say I did fairly well for buying the motor and gutting it then honing and cleaning it myself, followed by getting it assembled and "somewhat" running. All that from following a SB rebuild manual and my basic understanding of motors. Now locks on the other hand I can tear apart and rebuild in my sleep :) Thats what 18 years as a Locksmith does. So overall I am here for the same experience from others with engines, that I have with locks and security :) Stepping on my toes will never be an issue.

I am not getting any oil in my chambers now at all. I am going to find the instructions for adjusting them as solid because after reading about the differences in solid vs hydraulic; and my recollection of what these lifters were when I had the motor disassembled I'm feeling they are solids and not hydraulic. There was no give of the centers with any kind of pressure that I recall. I will give that a shot and see where it gets me :) Got the pressure up to 12" now through adjusting the metering screws. Its improving little by little with all of the help here. Now if I could just get it to engage into drive without choking out.

use the same method that tech told you except use a feeler gage adj. the rocker arme so you can just slip the gage between the rocker and the valve with the drag the same on all the valves I would adjust the intakes to 10 thou. and exhaust to 12

Will give that a shot tomorrow. not enough light to work in garage, and ran out of daylight. Thanks again for all the help guys :)

Could the card floats have been bent due to the high fuel pressure and caused this. I read this some where in a previous post.

Okay, so today was a bit of a chore! Here is the numbers I could find on the Erson cam. I've tried to research but am coming up with no real numbers. Anyone that has a good source or can help me identify it; your assistance would be greatly appreciated.
EP1
D3
C3
28B
CWC

why not call erson cam ? they made it need the number ?775.246.4062 they grind all my cams i deal with them every week there good guys

I put a request into them as well :) just thought I might get lucky and someone would have an old catalog or something that would help. I cant expect a response from them till at least Tuesday, so it never hurts to try :)

well i do.. them number are no help.they could just be core numbers or cam mill numbers like elgin they grind small shelf stocking cams for some the big cam companys. you need some thing like this e119727-47 or rh-294-365-47n then i can help you:D

My best experience tells me that this is an OEM camshaft. CWC stands for
Campbell Wyatt and Cannon, the foundry that cast the core. OEM cams will have this CWC cast into the blank. Aftermarket cam grinders will usually have the CWC deleted from the blank cores when they buy them. And another reason I think this is OEM is that I have never purchased an aftermarket cam that wasn't identified on one end or the other, if not with the grinders name, then most certainly with some identifying mark such as 280H, identifying the cam as having 280 degrees advertised duration and being hydraulic.

Bummer... Thanks for looking though :) Those are the numbers that are cast between lobes. no numbers on face or rear of camshaft so I would not know where else to look. Tore the top end off today just to get what I could find as it was with the motor when I bought it, and the only detail I have not been able to put numbers too. I have a feeling that its a bit too beefy for the TC I am using based only upon my observations of lopiness and Idle position. What I have seen about most of the Erson cams I looked at were pretty high idle rates (2000rpm+) for the "lopey" ones and require a larger TC than what I have. Engine has a fantastic idle at 2000rpm + but anything below that it just kid of sputters. when it is idling that high the Vacuum pressures are 15 - 16 and as the idle increases the pressure increases. I just cant see having my engine idling that high all the time. This is going to see a bit of road time and imo that will only cause me to feed alot into the tank regularly. If Erson can give me some details great, if not then I will probably just pick up a decent cam more in line with my needs. If the cam is as beefy as it sounds and feels, I do not think my compression is enough for it either. 8.5:1 is where it tested yesterday

Wow, thanks Tech :) and to think I was typing all the above post while you were responding ... I believe then that I am definitely going to just go ahead and replace the cam and lifters. I dont need anything severe currently so I may just go with an easy Edelbrock package like this http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-2102/ is that too much or just about right? Suggestions are welcome. I will call summit Monday and discuss different options with them as well

look at e113121. 214/214 449/449 lc 111 adv 4 rpms 2000-4750 .here is the cam your looking it made by elgin 420/443 204/214 112lc e923 . or elgin 443/465 214/224 lc 112 e922 .i think your old cam is a elgin cam