Thread: Hydrolic rollers

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Are hydrolic rollers worth all the hip. I called a machine shop and asked them about taping the block for hydrolic rollers and they said they would trade me my block for a newer modal block ready for them. I am kind of sceptical because of the price to convert to hyd. rollers, I have never delt with this shop and I know that I have a good block. How much more horse power is it going with hyd. versus regular lifters. I guess I my question is, is it worth takeing a chance on trade a known good block in for a block I know nothing about and paying extra for the hydrolic roller lifters.


Thanks
ChevyDave

Heck, if the roller block has been magnafluxed and has no cracks, might as well trade. If both blocks are 4 bolt mains or 2 bolt mains, it should be a fair swap for both you and the shop. If the block isn't cracked and doesn't need to be align bored and honed, should work out fine....

Or, just run your block and get one of the retrofit kits... Or, run a solid roller in your old block and adjust the valves once in awhile.....

Biggest improvement is the roller cams will produce more power, quicker throttle response, and you can have a lot more aggressive cam patterns.... The new oils don't have a lot of zinc in them anymore, wiping out flat tappet cams is getting to be more common all the time.... Not a problem with roller cams....

Hey Chevy Dave, most '87 or newer gm small blocks came with factory installed roller cams/lifters. Retro fit roller lifters are pretty expensive compared to the later OE roller lifters. As are the cams. I will only build roller engines because of the zinc issues in the oil plus all the other positives associated with roller cams/lifters.

depends on what you are trying to do...a roller cam is always good

I'll never build another flat tappet motor and the cost to convert a flat tappet block to roller is insane. You can find the roller blocks on craigslist for under $100.

Great Thread:

The roller is definitely the way to go. Here’s an article that discusses the finer points and the pitfalls – which are many if you want to convert a pre-87 block. If your machine shop will get you a roller block, I’d go for that.

Don't know what your paying for all your machine work, but here's something to consider: The GM Part Number 10105123 is a “Heavy Duty Production, Cast Iron” bare block 350 with, 4 bolt main caps and the 1-piece rear main seal that’s ready for a roller camshaft and it’s about $750 from your local Chevy parts counter


http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/te...cam/index.html

Have fun,
Glenn

get a gm block that use the hyd roller lifters .if you have all work done to your block the roller cam is still cheap in the long run if you wipe the cam and have to re build it over from a wiped cam lobe. gm went roller if it was not better they would of not did it .i try to build all engine with roller cams bbc is the only engine that i will not think about trying a flat cam in they eat cams

Thanks for the info. Lots of help. I figured that roller was the way to go.

Thanks
ChevyDave