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  1. #1
    techinspector1's Avatar
    techinspector1 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    May 2003
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    Zephyrhills, Florida, USA
    Car Year, Make, Model: '32 Henway
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    In my experience, the single biggest snafu made by first time builders is choosing a cam that is too large for the rest of the combo.

    The key is coordinating the intake valve closing point with the available static compression ratio. If you have a stock 350 Chevy that has a SCR of 8.5:1 and you install a cam that is meant for a motor with SCR of 11.0:1, the intake valve will close so late in the cycle that you won't build sufficient cylinder pressure to make good power. The late closing of the valve allows the piston to push some of the mixture that has just been drawn into the cylinder, back up the intake tract to confuse the venturi and cause a rough idle. This is called reversion. It contributes to insufficient power at low rpm's and results in insufficient manifold vacuum to operate accessories such as power brakes.

    Dynamic compression ratio takes into account the rod length and intake closing point. Paying attention to DCR will result in the optimum cam/scr combination to make maximum cylinder pressure for the available fuel used.

    I've been playing with my dyno software and can tell you that I have found that no matter the internal components used, the power can be choked off at the inlet and outlet points on the motor. I simulated a 350 with stock-type intake manifold and 1 1/2" headers. Changing to a Performer RPM manifold and 1 3/4" headers pickup up 55 ft/lbs of torque and 90 hp!!!!!!!

    Another snafu is choosing heads that are too big for the cubic inches and rpm range of the motor. Ultimately, the cfm rating of the ports is the deciding factor. For instance, the L31 Vortecs (12558062 casting) look too small for a 355 at 170cc intake runner size. But when you look at the flow rating on the heads, they outflow anything made previously by Chevrolet, including the double hump F.I. heads that are so sought after by newbies who really don't know any better. You can source 'em from a boneyard off of '96 to '99 Chevy trucks (5700 Vortec motor). Look for a sawtooth design on the end of the heads. When looking for aftermarket heads for a street motor, a good rule of thumb is the cubic inches of your motor times 1/2 for the intake runner volume.

    As was stated by others here, it's a balancing act to get everything working together toward a common goal based on available fuel and what you expect the combination to do.
    Last edited by techinspector1; 10-04-2008 at 05:13 PM.
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  2. #2
    glennsexton's Avatar
    glennsexton is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 63 Nova SS
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    I absolutely positively support the info from techinspector – the Vortec heads from Chevy trucks seem to be the best ever. I don’t know what kind of wrecking yard access you have, but these heads used to be fairly accessible for about $100-200 apiece. GM may still be able to get this part number for about $500 a pair. Private party will clean them up and sell them online for a lot more.
    This Vortec head is an LT1 designed chamber. It has LT1 intake and exhaust ports with 1.94/1.50-inch valves. If you can in a good clean set (tight valves and springs), they perform well in their stock configuration. Everything that I have read shows they can easily produce 400HP with “off the shelf” Performer series manifold, cam and carb from Edelbrock. The casting number techinspector referenced is the only good one. 10239906 was also used for these truck motors and it doesn’t flow as well.
    Key to remember is that this head definitely requires a Vortec specific intake manifold. Also, like a lot of Chevy heads, this one uses press in rocker arm studs (3/8”). Not necessarily bad, unless someone has reefed on them or you’re building a really monster spring/cam combination.
    You also get to use the really cool center bolt valve covers.
    Good luck on this project

  3. #3
    rumrumm's Avatar
    rumrumm is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: '32 Ford 3W Coupe, 383 sbc
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    I would recommend studying the dyno-tested engine combinations at the website below. They should give you a good idea about combinations and the hp and torque different heads and camshafts will produce on 350's and 383's. Anything over 500 hp will probably not have good street manners. I built my 383 based on Combination #15. It is a great street engine, but I would not want a bigger cam with an automatic transmission.

    www.ryanscarpage.50megs.com/


    Lynn
    '32 3W

    There's no 12 step program for stupid!

    http://photo.net/photos/Lynn%20Johanson

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