Thread: engine teardown... pics/ proform info????

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i think ya took it the wrong way pat, i wasnt trying to say that your telling me wrong, i was just trying to say that it only has that many miles.. but yes, thank you for telling me that, i had no ideal that that is the longest they last on street use.

so for my next build, you would reccomend basically a "stock" stamped steel rocker arm? or what is your choice on a good roller rocker? full roller top end better for street or no? its gonna probably be a 383 or 406, shooting for 380ish wheel hp. but yea, ill check stuff, i have no problem checking stuff, i just had no idea.

now when you check for pushrod size, how would that make much of a difference when everything is for the "basic small block chevy"? i could understand if i had ALL the wrong pushrods for size if everyone of them had ground down or broke, but it was just two of them. ? just curious! thank you pat

Originally Posted by tim_bo16

i think ya took it the wrong way pat, i wasnt trying to say that your telling me wrong, i was just trying to say that it only has that many miles.. but yes, thank you for telling me that, i had no ideal that that is the longest they last on street use.

so for my next build, you would reccomend basically a "stock" stamped steel rocker arm? or what is your choice on a good roller rocker? full roller top end better for street or no? its gonna probably be a 383 or 406, shooting for 380ish wheel hp. but yea, ill check stuff, i have no problem checking stuff, i just had no idea.

now when you check for pushrod size, how would that make much of a difference when everything is for the "basic small block chevy"? i could understand if i had ALL the wrong pushrods for size if everyone of them had ground down or broke, but it was just two of them. ? just curious! thank you pat

well the stock stuff will run over 70.000 EZ roller rocker s will not less they are the best built rockers and do know the ones that could ? no guaranty but have some ideals but we are talking $500to $1700 . it would be hard for me to tell you that any of them could make the trip 100% for sure but the odds would be better. for street miles them can be the hardest low oil splash. race engine at best only see a hand full of miles then they get open up to check every thing .as for it stock and should you check things that is a big YES .every rocker even after market steel stamp ones should be check .every one that makes roller rocker arms can very to a small amount to alot in geometry and the harlandsharp to let say a crane roller rocker will not take the same length pushrod there are many ways to check the geometry from low to hi tech the way i do it works off the rocker you are going to use not the 15.00 cheap checker .i did say 210 tip on your pushrods very well could of stop what went wrong .WHAT THE HELL IS A 210 TIP? the 210 is back clearance radius that will increased load bearing surface alot of guys say you do not need them i use them on about every thing that will run a roller rocker if i think the cup is deep and on yours they are .if you had to do it all over i not a big fan of rocker s that track at the valve stem and not in the head or the use of a guilde plates .as for the roller tips rockers they are a wast of money your not getting zip from them all the force still is working on the rocker ball/ fulcum .not a roller trunnion so a roller tip rocker still will see about same amount of friction as steel stamper will see and will show wear at the highest load point the rocker ball not the tip... rollers rockers are the best just not going to last very long and all geometry should be check along with the push rod tip to rocker arm cup..

Must of been the bud light in the first picture, that blurred the rest! Sorry to hear about your lifter problems.