Thread: Streetable HP?

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I have a 59 Chevy Apache short bed truck w/4-link rear, IFS, 700R. I want to buy a 383 that will handle A/C, P/S, P/B, run on 91 octane, etc.. What would be the highest HP/Torque #'s that I should go for ? Basically I want the most power and still be streetable/reliable. Any input is appreciated because all the machine shops/engine builders by me are telling me different things.

Think I'd be shooting for something in the 400 ft. lbs. torque rating and lots of good low and mid-range power. Plenty of power for cruizin' with all the accessories running and with the o/d tranny you could gear it right and do some good highway running and keep the rpm in the 2200 to 2500 RPM range..... Much more power then that, and with street tires in a light backended pickup you'll just blow the tires off it anyway... No reason to go for 500 horse if you can't hook it up.... The lower ratio low gear in the trans will compensate a lot for the lower power numbers. Depending on rear tire size, should be able to get away with a rear gear in the 3.50 range.... Good acceleration and good cruisin' revs all in one package!!!! Sounds like a plan to me!

Go for big torque, somewhere north of 375+ ft/lbs. A big torquer can handle all those accessories.

I would say anything is streetable unless you have a real big cam, high stall ratio, and sometimes double pumper carbs can be over zealous.

I have been told on this site that cams over 280 advertised duration can make things a bit hairy on the street for a SBC.

My father had issues with "street manners" and as such unfortunately had to tune a little of the beast of of his baby, but that was due to a nackered engine. (previous engine builder installed race parts here and there but did not throughly think things out)

I would say its safe to say just really plan out your build. Build you engine around your cam and match your heads to your cam.

Best of luck,
-CJP

P.S. This is my first post of answering someone else's question. If I messed up "take it easy on me laddy!"

So what would be a good cam to build the engine around? I'm not an engine builder by any meens. I would just like to sound a little educated when I talk to the engine builder.

It won't be a daily driver, but I would still like to be able to take on long trips etc. It will basically be a weekend toy.

If you want to take it on long trips, I suggest trailering it. Anything with big numbers for HP and Torque, isn't something I want to be in for a 400 mile trip. Yeah you could do it, but it won't be a lot of fun.

What would be good for 200-300 mile trips?

Originally Posted by DennyW

Look at all these combos.

Ryan's Small Block Chevy Stroker Engine Combo Page

Denny has given you the key here. See combo 11.
I'm gonna outline what I would consider to be the ultimate pump-gas-friendly street bullet that can be driven anywhere for as long as you want. The static compression ratio and cam specs of combo 11 guarantee it. Max torque at 3,500 rpm's is icing on the cake.

350 block. Assuming you're starting with a virgin block, bore it 0.030" and cut the decks 0.017" to arrive at a final block deck height of 9.008". With a "stack" measurement of 9.008" (crank radius, rod, piston), this will result in a zero piston deck height.

Pistons. KB197 hypereutectic 12cc dish. Clearance piston to wall at 0.0015" to 0.002". Gap top ring at minimum 0.026". Gap second ring at standard 0.018"
to 0.020". With 75cc heads, 0.041" compressed head gasket, zero deck and these pistons, static compression ratio will be 9.15:1
United Engine and Machine Co.

Rods. 5.7" 350 rods. Usual clearancing on a 383 includes grinding at the rod bolt heads for cam lobe clearance, grinding at the oil pan rail of the block for big-end clearance and paying attention to the clearance of the pin end of the rod on the balance pad at the underside of the piston crown. I don't like 6.000" rods in a stroker because it puts the pin up into the oil ring. Also, I consider longer rods much ado about nothing. This opinion can be verified by Iskenderian. Click here and scroll down to Tech Tip 2005......
ISKY Racing Cams - Do It Right. Race with the Legend. Camshafts, Connecting Rods, Valve Springs, Lifters

Crank. Use the crank of your choice. You can cut the main journals of a stock 400 crank to fit into the main saddles of the 350 block or you can buy a specifically-made aftermarket crank. Your choice. If using an aftermarket crank, pay attention to the fillet radius. You may need to use bearings with a wider fillet to clear at the corners of the journals and avoid interference.

Heads. Air Flow Research 195 street heads with 75cc chambers. Straight plug part number 1036, angle plug part number 1038 depending on header interference and your personal choice. Screw 'em onto the block with Fel-Pro #1003 head gaskets (AFR #6800). (0.041" compressed). This will put the squish (piston crown to cylinder head at TDC) at 0.041".
195cc Small Block Chevy: Aluminum cylinder head manufacturing and flow dynamics

Intake. Airflow Research #5028. This is the manifold listed in combo 11, but I would talk to AFR about using the #5030 to find out if it might work better on this relatively low-rpm motor.
SBC Manifold: Aluminum cylinder head manufacturing and flow dynamics

Carburetor. Holley 600 CFM. I'd talk with AFR to determine the specific model to use in this application.

Headers. Equal-length, 1 5/8" primaries, 2 1/2" tubing to the back using an "X" pipe right before the mufflers. Don't get caught up in all the muffler hype. There's probably not 5 hp difference in any of them when the dust settles. I like to use 36" long glasspaks myself.

Cam. I don't know if AFR still offers the cam shown in combo 11, but if they don't, I'm sure they could give you the detailed specs (LSA, installed centerline, etc.) to use to arrive at the hp and torque figures shown. The short lift is gonna be easy on valve springs too.

Ignition. I think it's hard to beat an HEI, especially if revs are limited. KB doesn't like advance to exceed 34 degrees and I suspect AFR would tell you the same thing. Put 12 in at the crank and configure the weights, springs and stops for an additional 22, all in by 2,800-3,000 rpms. Also use vacuum advance.

NOW HEAR THIS!!!!! I don't want to hear any carping about the cost of AFR heads. You either want to use the best or you don't. If you can't afford 'em yet, wait until you can.

P.S. It wouldn't surprise me a whole bunch if this motor (configured as I've outlined) would make the same power on 89 or even 87 octane fuel.

P.P.S Please read this article I wrote to understand and correct the interface between the heads and intake manifold so that you have a good seal there....
Manifold/Head vacuum leak, internal - Crankshaft Coalition Wiki

Howdy Richard.

RCS looks like you walked right into the right stuff here all the way around. Go for it.

Kitz

Thanks techinspector1,

I think that combo sounds good. I'll show it to my engine builder and see what he says and report back.

Check out combo #13 See how a well built 355 with the right Camshaft . Will make the same power as that 383 in combo #11 . I would go with a 355 4 bolt with 190cc heads and a Comp cams XE268H camshaft . And for the intake . The Weiand Stealth Air Strike # 8501 . And for the carb the Edelbrock Performer 750 CFM . Or if you have your mind set on a 383 build . I think the #15 combo is the better one to go with .

Hay Techinspector do you know what them AFR # 1036 heads co$t ? There only $1500.00 a pair . I bet they are good . But for a street build NO WAY . And there intake manifolds must be way up in cost to . How much money do you want to spend on this build ? And a 600CFM Holley ?

whats wrong with camel humps 75-200 bucks and 600 holley-20-50 bucks

Originally Posted by tango

Hay Techinspector do you know what them AFR # 1036 heads co$t ? There only $1500.00 a pair . I bet they are good . But for a street build NO WAY . And there intake manifolds must be way up in cost to . How much money do you want to spend on this build ? And a 600CFM Holley ?

Ummmm... $1500 for heads isn't a lot of money..... not for the quality of the parts....

What the heck is wrong with wait a little longer, save a little more??? Never have understood why most folks think they have to have everything RIGHT NOW and can't save up for the better parts.....

Anyway, Richard said he didn't want to hear the whining about the cost.... and I'm just saying I've found that it's always worth waiting and saving.....

Ya them AFR heads are nice . But there are other brand heads that work just as good for $400.00 Less . But if you have the cash to burn great . Like I said check out combo #15 that one will make your truck fly .