Thread: Air gap manifold question
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02-18-2008 07:52 PM #1
go with the smallest cfm 4bbl carbs you can get. maybe holley 300cfm or 350cfm? they were made for puttin a 4bbl on inline 6's. this guy i knew had 2 450cfm holleys with a weind duel tunnel ram an a points ignition with a stock coil its always ran rich an like crap an on top of it the dummy had a monster circle track cam in it with a 3000 - 7000 rpm range. but i had ran a victor jr with a single 600cfm edelbrock carb on a stock motor an it worked great no heat problems ran a 160 t-stat alsoDerek Doble
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02-18-2008 08:31 PM #2
Things could run a little different, he lives in LA. and you live in MN.
Originally Posted by speedy55779
Friends dont let friends drive fords!
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02-18-2008 11:05 PM #3
Go with the non air gap..........Its gunna take longer than u thought and its gunna cost more too(plan ahead!)
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02-19-2008 01:31 AM #4
Before the Air Gap intakes were around . We would just block off the heat ports . And run a Lifter valley tray . By do so the intake would stay much cooler . But when driving the car on below 50deg days . It would be like a car with no choke . And after say 50 min of driving with the under hood temp higher . Then the car was more drivable . The Air Gap will do the same thing in below 50deg days . If you take out your rod on the more warmer days then it will work great . Because on the hot days with are old set up . Or with the new Air Gap . Your manifold will be at a much cooler temp . The chance of Vapor Locking is next to none . Or you can run the non-Air Gap intake with the heat ports open . And just the valley tray that keeps the hot oil off the bottom of the intake . I do it this way on a car that is more street then strip .






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I’m also late to this party. RIP John Boy
John Norton aka johnboy