Thread: chev 302's back from the dead

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Originally Posted by speedy55779

what do you guys think of this? 1960 283 bored to 302 stock steel crank (not cast iron) forged 4340 light weight I-beam rods ARP bolts light wieght forged .100 domed pistons RHS 64cc heads with 2.02 & 1.60 valves w/port matching on the heads and intake victor jr intake w/800cfm edelbrock carb solid roller cam and lifters .558 lift on int. & exh. 3000-7000RPM, roller rockers full balanced rotating assembley 150 shot of NOS. 3000 stall converter 700R4 or 4L60 or 4L80 tranny 5:12 gears w/ 30x12.50x15 rear slicks 3200lb car.

I like this set up even with out the spray or a blower . Only I would run a Holley 700CFM D/P and a built TH350 With a 3800 stall . Install it in a 1967-68 Camaro . Man that car should run low 12s . Even a 488 gear Would work ok . COOL speedy you come up with some real good builds .

Originally Posted by tango

I like this set up even with out the spray or a blower . Only I would run a Holley 700CFM D/P and a built TH350 With a 3800 stall . Install it in a 1967-68 Camaro . Man that car should run low 12s . Even a 488 gear Would work ok . COOL speedy you come up with some real good builds .

yeah see i don't like holleys but everyone has their choice but i would run NOS with the 5:12 gears and have it scream down the track and if she holds together she holds together

Speedy I like carter AFBs Had a 750 Edelbrock carb on my last 350 Old's Build . It did work good ! Have the 600CFM Edelbrock on the 289 Mustang . I don't like the Holley 600 V/S right out the box . A big 2BBL will out perform it .

Originally Posted by tango

Speedy I like carter AFBs Had a 750 Edelbrock carb on my last 350 Old's Build . It did work good ! Have the 600CFM Edelbrock on the 289 Mustang . I don't like the Holley 600 V/S right out the box . A big 2BBL will out perform it .

yeah that fine. i would run an edelbrock and you would run a holley so what

Originally Posted by speedy55779

yeah that fine. i would run an edelbrock and you would run a holley so what

So I think the Holley will make that car E.T Better for that build that's what

Originally Posted by speedy55779

what do you guys think of this? 1960 283 bored to 302 stock steel crank (not cast iron) forged 4340 light weight I-beam rods ARP bolts light wieght forged .100 domed pistons RHS 64cc heads with 2.02 & 1.60 valves w/port matching on the heads and intake victor jr intake w/800cfm edelbrock carb solid roller cam and lifters .558 lift on int. & exh. 3000-7000RPM, roller rockers full balanced rotating assembley 150 shot of NOS. 3000 stall converter 700R4 or 4L60 or 4L80 tranny 5:12 gears w/ 30x12.50x15 rear slicks 3200lb car.

your doing ok, get rid of the edelbrock carb if your gonna race it at all, get a holley, whats the compression on that gonna be i suck at math , if 11:-1 use a 750 dbl pumper mech,2ndaries if 12:-1 and up get an 830. use a turbo 350 and a 4000 or up stall i had a 3500 it ran like a dog. rods you could get away with some nice reconned factory's the cam size is good and the spray would help you out a little instead of needing mass compression u can use that to compensate i am switching to a set of 5:13's gears as we speak with a 4500 stall if i was going to put a 6-71 on a 301 id fill the block

gassersrsrule-196 I may pick up a 1984 Pontiac T/A from a guy at work . It has a stock LG4 305 with a 700R and a 3.42 gear . I don't like to build 305s there ok for a mild street build . And I don't want to go with a 350 . I do have a 1966 283 I have wanted to build up . I think this T/A would like that engine . But I will drive that car to work a lot and do some drag racing with it . So to start I would go 60 over on the block (292 ci) With ARP rod bolts . And I would like to keep the C/R at 9.5.1 maybe run some S/R world heads 67cc but 194/150 valves . And for an intake I have a edelbrock dual plane EPS . And a 600CFM Performer carb . Now for the camshaft how about the Lunati Voodoo #60101LK It's 213/219 at 050 with 454/468 lift . I think this set up will work good for this 90% street T/A . What do you think is the best set up for a street build on a 283 ?

i cannot justify spending 1500+ dollars for heads on EVERY engine build when i can get away with less for the same. i am very stubborn in that aspect, how much do those cars weight? how big is a 280h comp i cant remember, but the 301's loved that cam for the street. no edel carb for me a 600 holley works just fine. the intake would work good. for me id build a 292 with 11:-1 some good oll 461 or 462's <i dont wanna hear it from none of you so just SSSHH> one step below the 280h or just go with a 280h, a performer rpm and a 600 holley. just remeber a 283 is one of the easyest motors to overcam!

Originally Posted by gassersrule_196

i cannot justify spending 1500+ dollars for heads on EVERY engine build when i can get away with less for the same. i am very stubborn in that aspect, how much do those cars weight? how big is a 280h comp i cant remember, but the 301's loved that cam for the street. no edel carb for me a 600 holley works just fine. the intake would work good. for me id build a 292 with 11:-1 some good oll 461 or 462's <i dont wanna hear it from none of you so just SSSHH> one step below the 280h or just go with a 280h, a performer rpm and a 600 holley. just remeber a 283 is one of the easyest motors to overcam!

You don't have to spend $1,500 +.
You can get into a set of RHS Pro Action heads for around $950 set up for a mech. cam.

ok at least another grand to the build that doesnt always need to be there.

Originally Posted by erik erikson

You don't have to spend $1,500 +.
You can get into a set of RHS Pro Action heads for around $950 set up for a mech. cam.

yep you can not boil out mag core drill ream new install mang bronze ream hone fit the guilds cut for a rigid chimney seal a 3 angle valve job cut the heads buy all the hard ware for less then 1/2 that price and i still did not add in for screw in studs and still not get as good of a flowing head did i miss any thing ????

Originally Posted by pat mccarthy

yep you can not boil out mag core drill ream new install mang bronze ream hone fit the guilds cut for a rigid chimney seal a 3 angle valve job cut the heads buy all the hard ware for less then 1/2 that price and i still did not add in for screw in studs and still not get as good of a flowing head did i miss any thing ????

A bunch of time porting, flowing, cc'ing, milling, spring height checking, and then some assembly time. Other then that, I think you covered it....

Originally Posted by Dave Severson

A bunch of time porting, flowing, cc'ing, milling, spring height checking, and then some assembly time. Other then that, I think you covered it....

well i just wanted to cover the basics but now your bring that up do not for get the run down to the hospital to get the iron ground out of your eye. my that last trip was $350.

Originally Posted by pat mccarthy

well i just wanted to cover the basics but now your bring that up do not for get the run down to the hospital to get the iron ground out of your eye. my that last trip was $350.

Not me man, I still have full warranty through the VA!!!! Eye cleanouts are freebies, but they still hurt!!!!

wow you guys cost way to much