Thread: Valve guide repair

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Originally Posted by DennyW

You forgot one Tom. Bronze guide helicoil repair. Good for 100,000 miles.
Done the same as knurling pretty much, and works well. Here is a link to explain that procedure a little more.

Fuels have a lot to do with, and also head, and guide material that you are working with.

http://books.google.com/books?id=G2k...vbU58kWSaZPzdc

I am familiar with the Winona bronze coil guide repair. Don't see too much of that anymore. Guide liners have supplanted that method of guide repair. I didn't mention it because it's more in line with guide replacement rather than knurling.

I agree. The type of fuel and head makes an impact on the type of guide repair or replacement consideration.

tom

Originally Posted by shop tom

I am familiar with the Winona bronze coil guide repair. Don't see too much of that anymore. Guide liners have supplanted that method of guide repair. I didn't mention it because it's more in line with guide replacement rather than knurling.

I agree. The type of fuel and head makes an impact on the type of guide repair or replacement consideration.

tom

i was just talking to day about the old winona bronze coil guides they are now sold under goodson name. i just like to core drill and ream to 500 and drive a solid manganese bronze in no worries

Originally Posted by pat mccarthy

i was just talking to day about the old winona bronze coil guides they are now sold under goodson name. i just like to core drill and ream to 500 and drive a solid manganese bronze in no worries

Hi Pat. You are down the road about 120 miles from me.

tom

Originally Posted by shop tom

Hi Pat. You are down the road about 120 miles from me.

tom

were are you north? if so i not in bay city but north from there

Originally Posted by pat mccarthy

were are you north? if so i not in bay city but north from there

I'm in Alpena. Where is you at?

tom

Sorry to disturb your tete á tete

I've measured my valve guides like in the pic below. This method gets me about 0,7mm (0.028") of top to bottom wobble on the exhaust and about 0,5mm (0.020") on the intake valve, pretty even through all cylinders, except for the three oversized stems, they have a little, but not a lot less. The seats seem to be good. The exact measuring method was: slip the valve into the guide so that the stem end stops exactly at the top of the guide. Then hold valve at the lowest possible position (press downward in the pic) and then hold valve at the topmost position, measure the difference. Don't forget, these aren't the absolute clearances, these are at about double the possible lift, so you would have to see half the mentioned clearances as the actual movement the valves can make. This is surely too much, or am I mistaken?
Thanks for any input,
Max

Denny, that would be really great! I'm serious about repairing the heads, I just don't know yet what method I should use on the valve guides. All other things are already in planning or done - heads are cleaned, bowls cleaned up, chambers polished, checked for cracks and straightness und gasket matched already. After the guides it's just the seats and screw in studs, then I'll be ready to roll It would be a shame not to go the last mile...
THX