Thread: 1 wire alternator
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05-14-2007 03:11 PM #16
As many good schematics and drawings as he's put up for me, I should probably send him a check!!!!!
Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
Carroll Shelby
Learning must be difficult for those who already know it all!!!!
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05-14-2007 05:36 PM #17
While we're talking about it . . .
I have a 1-wire alternator on my project '34. I understand that some folks have had problems with 1-wire alternators, but this one is new, and I'm not inclined to throw it away. I just don't want to burn the project down.
The attached diagram shows how I have it wired.
All the outputs from the panel are fused, based on what they're attached to. If any of them shorts out, the panel fuses protect me.
I'm thinking I need a maxi-fuse in wire "B" in case the alternator runs away on me. Does that make sense?Jack
Gone to Texas
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05-14-2007 07:29 PM #18
Denny,
I never had an old Chrysler . . . no clue what that is.Jack
Gone to Texas
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05-14-2007 07:32 PM #19
I put a maxi-fuse on all the cars I build!!! Cheap insurance for an electrical fire!!Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
Carroll Shelby
Learning must be difficult for those who already know it all!!!!
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05-14-2007 07:44 PM #20
Dave,
Did you put it where I indicated?Jack
Gone to Texas
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05-15-2007 12:25 AM #21
how do i know how many amps my alternator is.. my dad bought it for me a while back and i never asked.. cus i have mine setup the same way henry has his ran but without the panel?? And what exactly is that panel for?? And wat exactly is a maxi fuse.. sorry im new to this stuff guys im just a suspension guy wanting to learn more.
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05-15-2007 03:19 AM #22
Denny,
It's 80 amps.Jack
Gone to Texas
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05-15-2007 07:46 AM #23
Painless has the optional one wire kit and a 50 amp maxi-fuse in most all of their kits as I understand it. This should prevent any battery explosions or fires. They were in my basic 12 circuit kit and I wired my Powermaster for 1 wire operation.
The only downside I see with the 1 wire is you do have to get to some rpm before it switches on. Once it's on it latches in and doesn't turn off until you turn off the car. I ain't too worried about a little blip of the throttle to latch it in.
KitzJon Kitzmiller, MSME, PhD EE, 32 Ford Hiboy Roadster, Cornhusker frame, Heidts IFS/IRS, 3.50 Posi, Lone Star body, Lone Star/Kitz internal frame, ZZ502/550, TH400
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05-15-2007 12:50 PM #24
Hmmmm. Didn't know they stayed on, thanks Kitz. So the low rpm no charge problem isn't really a problem as long as the engine is once over 1500 rpm and not shut off????
Originally Posted by kitz
Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
Carroll Shelby
Learning must be difficult for those who already know it all!!!!
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05-15-2007 12:59 PM #25
I believe that is correct ............
KitzJon Kitzmiller, MSME, PhD EE, 32 Ford Hiboy Roadster, Cornhusker frame, Heidts IFS/IRS, 3.50 Posi, Lone Star body, Lone Star/Kitz internal frame, ZZ502/550, TH400
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05-15-2007 01:37 PM #26
Some interesting reading:
http://www.madelectrical.com/electri...hreewire.shtml
http://www.powermastermotorsports.co...ternators.htmlDave

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05-15-2007 03:48 PM #27
The "panel" is the main fuse box in the car. That's where almost all of the wiring originates. A maxi fuse is a very large capacity fuse (60 amp or more) that protects the main supply circuit in case of a major short.
Originally Posted by Shavenlaidblaze
Jack
Gone to Texas
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05-15-2007 05:03 PM #28
So, I'm going to have to excite my alternator? I'm getting too old for that.
Originally Posted by DennyW
Jack
Gone to Texas





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