Thread: something loose?

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Well, I unbolted the TC, pushed it back and got happy: One of the flexplate bolts was loose. So I thought: Good thing, saved a lot of time and money. So I tightend it back down, started the engine and got sad: Nothing changed, the clanging is still there. The flexplate also doesn't seem to be bent or cracked, I inspeced it very carefully, as carefully as I could with it installed and with the aid of a good handlamp. Anyway, two things: The noise doesn't sound the same as if a bang on the flexplate with a small hammer, it doesn't ring like the fp, it's more of a clacking sound... Second: Only one bolt of 6 was loose, I don't think that would make a noise that loud...
I have also checked for loose headers (that's not the case) and waterpump is going to be checked soon. But I fear it's something "internal"
What rotating assy would you suggest? Go with GM parts or more like Scat or Eagle? Would I need a steel crank or would iron do the job? remember: heavy car, fun-style of driving.
Many thanks to all of you,
Max

Originally Posted by MadMax

Go with GM parts or more like Scat or Eagle? Would I need a steel crank or would iron do the job? remember: heavy car, fun-style of driving.
Many thanks to all of you,
Max

I would go with the eagle cast steel crank, I have had plenty of experience with those, they are nicely prepped. But on thinking about it if your freight charges are sky high it will cost the same for a forged crank as for a cast steel crank freight wise. Another thing to think about is, to think abot the 383 kit, cost a little more but should be the same in freight. With the 383 kit I would go the whole hog, pistons, rings, bearings, rods. Just make sure that you get the internally balanced kit, so you can reuse your balancer and flexplate. Oh and the assembly has to be balanced, so make sure you have an engine balancer handy. Good luck with it