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Thread: 11 sec. mods for a 350
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    pat mccarthy's Avatar
    pat mccarthy is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Quote Originally Posted by erik erikson
    I was thinking more "alterd".
    oh it and you would be after the first run

  2. #2
    erik erikson's Avatar
    erik erikson is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: BLOWN 540 57 CHEVY
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    Quote Originally Posted by pat mccarthy
    oh it and you would be after the first run
    This is true.
    I know lets ask Dave maybe he has an old sprint car frame laying around.
    Do you think we could install a set of "down nozzle injectors" on a slant six head???

  3. #3
    pat mccarthy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by erik erikson
    This is true.
    I know lets ask Dave maybe he has an old sprint car frame laying around.
    Do you think we could install a set of "down nozzle injectors" on a slant six head???
    why not lets fill the block make a soild alum head and run nitro and i will make the oil pan out of 1/4 steel to catch the$hit flying out of the pan

  4. #4
    erik erikson's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pat mccarthy
    why not lets fill the block make a soild alum head and run nitro and i will make the oil pan out of 1/4 steel to catch the$hit flying out of the pan
    I get started on finding a couple of big buckets and shovels to scoop up all the $hit that is left behind that the pan will miss.

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    jimmyjeep is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 1997 S-10 357c.i.
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    ..what have I started?
    "oohh...thats gonna leave a mark!"

    1997 s-10, 357 C.I., 350 turbo, speedpro 11:1,Comp Cam custom grind mech. roller, Canfield heads, 1.6 roller rockers, edelbrock tm-1, holley 750sp, Hooker Headers, MSD, 3K B&M stall, 4:11 gears

  6. #6
    erik erikson's Avatar
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    O.K.,I will give you a "rough" idea of what it takes to build a 11 sec. engine.
    start with a old early 70's four bolt block with a 4340 with a 3.75 stroke crank and h- beam rods so it becomes a 383.
    This is a race engine so lets shove the comp. ratio up to say 13 to 1.
    You will need good heads say a 200 or 210 cc port volume for a starting point.
    Lets look at mech. roller cams that have .900 base so you don't have to worry about clearence issues at the cam it's self.
    In a cam this size I like the old 4-7 swap.
    Lets say 270/278 at .050 and .650/.650, 106 l/s with this cam you should make power to 7,500.
    Run a Victor with a 2 inch spacer, flowed 750 double pumper.
    Run a 5.13 gear with a 5,000 stall and a brake.
    If you can hook it up it will run 11's.
    This should work.
    Now I have to get back to building the "slant six" that is going to blown and injected.
    Where did I put that short block.

  7. #7
    pat mccarthy's Avatar
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    Now I have to get back to building the "slant six" that is going to blown and injected.
    Where did I put that short block.[/quote]ok will them 4.625 BBC pistons work they are dish

  8. #8
    pat mccarthy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by erik erikson
    I get started on finding a couple of big buckets and shovels to scoop up all the $hit that is left behind that the pan will miss.
    ok it a deal lets go i can do the pan the headers and some of the machine work i am sure we can find parts that we can make fit i have some 4.625 bore piston ? think it can be sleeve out that far

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