Thread: will a reground stock crank work

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[QUOTE=maineevent]so i 'll get mine reground then[/QUOTE

Sounds good are your new pistons the same weight as the ones you have in there?

Oh and when you get it reground ask the machinist if he can leave a little radius at the edge of the journals and to smooth off the oil holes that go through the crank. It all helps. Then when you get that crank back take the time to clean out the oil holes with a small pipe cleaner brush and check to make sure no grit is left in the oil holes.

[QUOTE=southerner]

Originally Posted by maineevent

so i 'll get mine reground then[/QUOTE

Sounds good are your new pistons the same weight as the ones you have in there?

Oh and when you get it reground ask the machinist if he can leave a little radius at the edge of the journals and to smooth off the oil holes that go through the crank. It all helps. Then when you get that crank back take the time to clean out the oil holes with a small pipe cleaner brush and check to make sure no grit is left in the oil holes.

This is very good advice.

A 10/10 regrind is fairly standard for a first rebuild of a motor, meaning the rod and main journals are both ground down by a mere 0.010" to make sure the rebuild is based on round journals instead of slightly egg shaped due to wear. Above you see that even a 0.020" grind is OK. In bygone years there was a danger that maybe by 0.030" any surface treatment would be removed, but machinists have told me that doesn't matter anymore so I don't know where to draw the line for an unusable crank, but for sure if it only takes a 10/10 regrind that should be as good as new.

Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder