All I did was remove the old electric in tank pump and I modified the part that goes down into the tank to act as a pickup tube. I forget exactly, as it has been over 3 years, but essentially you are creating an extension on the plate to go down to the bottom of the tank, and suck fuel up that tube. I put a "sock" on it that I removed from the old pump (I think), or maybe I just left the filtering up to the spin on filter I installed before the new electric pump.

As for the return line, at first I just slipped one of those vacuum block off tips you buy on a card with various sizes on it at the auto parts store. You know, the ones you use to block off unneeded ports on carbs and intakes. However, after a year the gasoline that splashes on it ate it apart, and I got a bad leak out of the old return port. So now I slipped a piece of fuel line over it and stuffed an appropriate sized shouldered bolt into the hose and put two clamps on it. Not the best way to do it, but it is now holding ok.

Make sure your cam has the eccentric on it to drive the mechanical pump. Sometimes the block has the provision, but the mfr doesn't put the eccentric on the cam as it is not needed for fuel injection. A flashlight and looking into the hole will let you know,

Like I said, I know fuel injection is better, newer technology, but I can fix a carb, and when a computer controlled injection goes haywire it stops me in my tracks. My ex-wife had a Lincoln Continental that NO shop or Dealer could make run right, and I was ready to pull off all the injection stuff and make it carbed, but one shop finally kept the car and drove it for a few days and solved the problem. But it was close to having an aluminum intake on it.

Good luck,

Don

PS, I just drove my 302 powered Jeep truck 6 hours today to pick up the new project, and it got 17 MPG on the highway, so carbs aren't all that bad.