Crankshalf Barings and Rod barings

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Originally posted by DennyW
You must like circles, cause I have no idea what lane your in. You said this at the top, or was it page 6 ?

Plastiguage is effected by temp. and humidity. It is for people who don't know how to read an inside bore gauge or mic. :whacked: :whacked:

So, by that, I didn't make your point, I made mine. :whacked: :whacked:

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Yes,I do like going in circles.I would want anyone new to engine building to have a crank checked by a pro or learn to use a mic.I think I am out front going into turn two or was that turn three.I think I might be a lap behind.:)

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Originally posted by lt1s10
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'Plastigauge can be obtained from all reputable machine shops. If your shop doesn't stock any, you ought to consider using another machine shop."
I agree with this Guy,

ERIK SAID "It is for people who don't know how to read an inside bore gauge."
whats plastigauge got to do with boring the block?

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What block where?I thought the post had to do with crankshafts and bearings??

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Originally posted by lt1s10
denny,wonder how erik think most people checked bearings for the last 75 yrs? erik, just because you dont know what it is, dont mean it dont work for other people. its a way of life for a lot of shops. you need to get out in the real world more often. :cool:

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UMMM,the first set of mics I bought was old when I got them.I have used mics for 20 years.I would guess plasti-gauge is the one that might be new to the game.

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Originally posted by Henry Rifle
The original question was "how can I tell if my crank was turned?" He didn't ask how to build a precision racing motor.

Within normal temperature ranges, plastigage will not vary enough to make a difference. It is more than accurate enough to make that judgement. If the crank is ground, it will be .010, .020, or 0.30. You don't need an inside mic to figure that out. Eric,

If you read that again, you might see why someone would think you were putting them down with that statement. Just a thought.

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I was not really trying to up-set anyone.Let me ask you this would you rather have your machinst/engine builder use a $200 mic and a $500 inside bore to check everthing or 25 cents of plast-gauge? It is a very good engine building practice that I use on $1,500 engines or $15,000 engines.It makes me feel better knowing I did my best.

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Originally posted by erik erikson
What block where?I thought the post had to do with crankshafts and bearings??

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you said "inside bore gauge" I was thinking pistons, but I guess you talking about the main and rod caps. plasti gauge will tell you all you need to know about the rods and mains.

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Originally posted by erik erikson
UMMM,the first set of mics I bought was old when I got them.I have used mics for 20 years.I would guess plasti-gauge is the one that might be new to the game.

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you really don't know what the stuff is or what its used for do you? my dad and brother used it in the 40's to check bearings in the old Babbitt bearing motors, where you shimmed the bearing cap to make them fit,(you've probably never did that either) and a 10,000.00 pair of mic. wouldn't have done you no good, if the shaft is in the motor, in the car, I'm not gonna pull it out just so I can get a mic. to it just to check it.

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Originally posted by erik erikson
I was not really trying to up-set anyone.Let me ask you this would you rather have your machinst/engine builder use a $200 mic and a $500 inside bore to check everthing or 25 cents of plast-gauge? It is a very good engine building practice that I use on $1,500 engines or $15,000 engines.It makes me feel better knowing I did my best.

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if you don't use plasti gauge when you torque you're rods and mains down the last time, then you're not building the best motor you can. plasti gauge and mics. are only as good as the man reading them.

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Originally posted by lt1s10
you really don't know what the stuff is or what its used for do you? my dad and brother used it in the 40's to check bearings in the old Babbitt bearing motors, where you shimmed the bearing cap to make them fit,(you've probably never did that either) and a 10,000.00 pair of mic. wouldn't have done you no good, if the shaft is in the motor, in the car, I'm not gonna pull it out just so I can get a mic. to it just to check it.

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Yes,I know what the "STUFF" is.I use it to line my bird cage when I run out of paper.All bearings have some forum of babbit metal in them .Who re-builds engines when they are still in the car?Now days we turn the crank to the correct size so we don't have to "shim" the bearings.If the clearance is to tight and we need to change it we simply get bearings that are at .001,.002 under to loosen it up or we try a different brand or style of bearings.If you have to "shim" the bearing cap I would also think about "line boring the block"That was then this is now.

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Originally posted by lt1s10
if you don't use plasti gauge when you torque you're rods and mains down the last time, then you're not building the best motor you can. plasti gauge and mics. are only as good as the man reading them.

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When I torque the rods down for the last time I follow the manufactuers spec. on the rod bolt and yes I also check the "stretch".When I torque down the mains for the last time I also follow the manufactures specs.When I do the final torque on the fastners I have already established any and all clearance's.:)

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Originally posted by erik erikson
When I torque the rods down for the last time I follow the manufactuers spec. on the rod bolt and yes I also check the "stretch".When I torque down the mains for the last time I also follow the manufactures specs.When I do the final torque on the fastners I have already established any and all clearance's.:)

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If you would have use plasti gauge, "like you should" then you would have done the best you could. untill then you are second best. :cool:

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anybody think i'm gonna pull a crank out of a motor and carry it to a machine shop so he can tell me what bearings I need has lost their mind. I can read the mic. and plasti gauge as well as they can.

ps- looks like better than some.

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