Thread: 383 stroker clearance

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Building 383 with 2 bolt block woth eagle kit. Founf that my block did not hit but found that the rods hit the camshaft in atleast3 spots... machinist told me to makr them and grind my rods.. i did it and now it all seems to clear good... anyone have any suggestions? I ahvent completed the motor yet, just a little worried about it.

in my engine experience ive built a few stroker motors...my impression so far and the advice of the man who was helping me on my clearance issues is that if it clears when you turn the motor over on the stand and nothing hits then u won't have any clearance issues when you actually fire the engine.

(make sure u turn it over for a compression stroke AND an exhaust stroke...try about 5 full rotations just to make sure)

what kit did u buy? the one with I beam rods or the one with H beams? and what cam are you using ( lift and such). im putting a 383 together as well. what is your impression of the eagle kit?

Originally posted by Hopper111
in my engine experience ive built a few stroker motors...my impression so far and the advice of the man who was helping me on my clearance issues is that if it clears when you turn the motor over on the stand and nothing hits then u won't have any clearance issues when you actually fire the engine.

(make sure u turn it over for a compression stroke AND an exhaust stroke...try about 5 full rotations just to make sure)

I hope you really don't believe this.What if you only have .002 of inch clearance between the rods and the block?Then you heat the block to 195 F and then you turn the engine to 7,000 r.p.m.what do you think is going to happen?I would fire (the man) and look for someone else for advice.I also would not be afraid to break out the feeler gauge set and check a few clearances.

well heres another guy planning to fit an eagle 383 internally balenced set (no forgings for me though)

Sixty6, do you have 6" rods or the 5.7"?

is this clearance issue with the cam shaft a common prob? not sure id like to start grinding rods that have been fully internally balenced. luckiyl i wont be buying untill this summer so i still have time to make allowences

Yes, it is always a problem unless you utilize a small base circle camshaft. But you can buy connecting rods that are already clearanced for stroker engines. H-Beams usually have less clearance issues that I-Beams. If you use H-Beam rods and a small base circle camshaft, you should have no clearance issues, but you will have to run longer push rods. Cam companies offer the smaller base circle cams if you ask. They are a little more expensive. Make sure you have the rotating assembly balanced after you do any grinding on the rod bolts.

yea well, his advice worked...since i've build the motor in this method there's been about 5,000 miles put on the motor and no problems... Oh well, don't listen to me my advice is always wrong. I should just stop trying to help.

Hopper, your info seems resonable since this is basically what i am going to try also. I had atleast 60 thous. between my crank and rods. The information i had said toallow foratleast 30 thous. Thanks for the info.

Originally posted by Hopper111
yea well, his advice worked...since i've build the motor in this method there's been about 5,000 miles put on the motor and no problems... Oh well, don't listen to me my advice is always wrong. I should just stop trying to help.

Yea, well if you continue to build engines using this method you will need a guy to ride shotgun with a big bucket and a scoop shovel to scoop up all the parts when the rods either hit the block or the cam and then shoots parts out the oil pan.

Originally posted by erik erikson
Yea, well if you continue to build engines using this method you will need a guy to ride shotgun with a big bucket and a scoop shovel to scoop up all the parts when the rods either hit the block or the cam and then shoots parts out the oil pan.

yes i just fixed a 632 that came apart in a big way 4 sleeves. a short fill of block rock two rods two pistons welded crank and a part of the pan rail gone and the oilpan? not much left why?? the cam was in the way of the rods and that all at6000rpms sayByeBye

sounds good. but how much clearance did you leave pat on your cam?

i put this all down on the second post and no one look at it so one more time i like to make very long feeler gages out of cardboad something like 0.70 to 0.60 thick places on the cam lobe and turn it and check it. do all the lobes have a friend turn the crank slow and check with the feeler gages i like the cardboad if i hit it will not hurt any thing and it will dent if no go so you take it out and CHECK for dents in it work great for me hope this works for you .oh you need a lot of light this helps so you can see the cam

ok so no longer am i enthused enough to give my advice. I should try to learn more before i give advice to others i guess.

clearence everything and u should be good , i had the same problem , my stroker runs like a champ , but needs egnition and stuff