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Thread: Crankcase ventilation
          
   
   

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  1. #15
    fordsfairlane's Avatar
    fordsfairlane is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    hopkinsville
    Car Year, Make, Model: 55 chevy belair
    Posts
    97

    if your in a pinch, and cant afford to keep on redoing the gasket, try 3M Weatherstrip Adhesive: Yellow on the block mounting serface, the timing cover and rear of block. use your finger to apply it evenly but not to thick, " its messy but works very well", "and make sure when you install the ruber endseals first make sure they are lined up and seated right , then before you istall the side gaskets dab a little glue on where the side gaskets meat into the ends of the seal , install the side rail gaskets, and dab a little RTV on the ends of the endseals , make sure they are all lined up with bolt holes let it sit for 2 or 3 min, and carefully place oilpan up to the block and start a few bolts, as you install more bolts finger tight, make sure the gasket didnt slide inwards , tighten all bolts by hand at first, to make sure the pan has seated to the block square . torque all bolts down in an alternating pattern, starting from the senter and working out going from side to side and front to back. torque the bolts a little at a time not all at once. but be carefull not to overtighten the bolts as this can sause the gasket material to split and you will have a leak again.

    this is what I do when I run into one of those type of problems, it is the only thing that seems to always work. good luck, and make sertan the you hit every bolt and dont skip one when torquing.

    here is a picture of the glue, it will bond metal to ruber or cork with great strength.
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