Thread: Got the rotating assembly / Now what heads?

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Originally posted by techinspector1
"What are the negatives your trying to avoid."

Detonation from currently available pump fuels.

I'm impressed with your figures and would be interested in knowing what fuel you're using. I've built a bunch of Chevies, but shoot for around 170 on street motors after talking with cam grinders over the years. Maybe I'm just too conservative, but I have an obligation to err on the side of caution in answering questions on this forum, 'cause I'm spendin' someones else's money.

Tech,

I only thing I do to be able to run a high cranking pressure is run a good quench area (0-deck height, 0.039 gasket) never a dome, D-shaped inverted dome if possible, polish the combustion chamber to a mirror finish (or as close as possible) a crank case evacuation system so that I don't have the PCV running off intake vacuum and putting impurities in the fuel mixture and I have also found that anti-reversion headers and a free flow exhaust helps some especially when you start getting over 205psi.

I run 93 Exxon and only enough timing as needed. I agree with being conservative when answering other questions. I never thought of it that way and for as long as I've been building engines, I HAVE ALWAYS RUN ON THE JAGGED EDGE OF HI-PERFORMANCE AND DURABILITY. PUSHING THE ENVELOPE WAS PART OF THE FUN....... and I'm not about to tell you I didn't let the smoke out quite a few prematurly through the learning process.

Originally posted by camaro_fever68
I AM CONVINCED THAT YOU HAVE NEVER BUILT AN ENGINE ANYWHERES BUT ON PAPER. THERE IS NO REASON TO BLEED OFF CYLINDER PRESSURE UNLESS HE WOULD'VE HAD ABOUT 10.5:1 OR MORE COMPRESSION SO HE COULD RUN PUMP GAS. I THINK YOU READ TOO MUCH. PLENTY BOOK IDEAS, NO REAL WORLD EXPERIENCE. HE HAS A 270H CAM FOR THAT ENGINE HE BUILDING AND IT WILL RUN GREAT WITH A GOOD QUENCH ALL THE WAY TO ABOUT 10.3:1 AND HAVE RIGHT ABOUT 200 PSI CRANKING PRESSURES, ACCORDING TO VE AND CAM SPECS. IF YOU TRY TO FIGURE IT TO SAY I'M WRONG, DON'T FORGET THAT THAT CAM HAS 4 DEGREES ADVANCE GROUND IN IT.

DON'T FOGET THE TIMING CHAIN WILL TAKE THE 4 DEGREES RIGHT BACK OUT OF IT. SSHHHH,DON'T SAY THAT I HAVE (NO REAL WORLD EXPERIENCE).I DON'T WANT THE AERA, AND THE ASE TO HEAR YOU.OH,NO. I CAN HEAR YOU SAYING IT AGAIN. L.O.L.

Originally posted by erik erikson
DON'T FOGET THE TIMING CHAIN WILL TAKE THE 4 DEGREES RIGHT BACK OUT OF IT. SSHHHH,DON'T SAY THAT I HAVE (NO REAL WORLD EXPERIENCE).I DON'T WANT THE AERA, AND THE ASE TO HEAR YOU.OH,NO. I CAN HEAR YOU SAYING IT AGAIN. L.O.L.

MY BAD.....I QUIT.....TRUCE.......

Originally posted by camaro_fever68
MY BAD.....I QUIT.....TRUCE.......

O.K.,TRUCE.IN SOME AREA'S WE THINK A LIKE,AND SOME WE THINK DIFFRENT.EITHER WAY YOU HAVE A VERY GOOD WORKING UNDERSTANDING OF THE SMALL BLOCK CHEVY.

Originally posted by erik erikson
O.K.,TRUCE.IN SOME AREA'S WE THINK A LIKE,AND SOME WE THINK DIFFRENT.EITHER WAY YOU HAVE A VERY GOOD WORKING UNDERSTANDING OF THE SMALL BLOCK CHEVY.

A little bit of controversy is ok sometimes because it opens up new and different ideas. It can be healthy if it doesn't get out of hand. You have some good advice about a lot of things and a good understanding also. Heck no-telling what we could come up with if we put our heads together. lol

I just got the Dart Iron Eagle SS's I ordered...

Sweet

Nice looking, too. A lot finer casting grain than stock.
The ports look to match my gaskets pretty closely.
Now I needs a set of old 2.02 valves to start polishing the bowl.
Any advise on putting on the studs and lifter guides?

Originally posted by dcoffield
I just got the Dart Iron Eagle SS's I ordered...

Sweet

Nice looking, too. A lot finer casting grain than stock.
The ports look to match my gaskets pretty closely.
Now I needs a set of old 2.02 valves to start polishing the bowl.
Any advise on putting on the studs and lifter guides?

DON'T TORQUE DOWN THE STUDS UNTIL YOU HAVE YOUR HEADS ON THE ENGINE.YOU MUST CHECK YOU PUSH ROD ALIGNMENT WITH YOUR ROCKER ARMS.YOU MIGHT HAVE TO GRIND THE HOLES IN THE GUIDE PLATES TO MOVE THEM AROUND ON THE STUDS.MAKE SURE YOU USE HARDENDED PUSH RODS WITH THE GUIDE PLATES.

Originally posted by erik erikson
DON'T TORQUE DOWN THE STUDS UNTIL YOU HAVE YOUR HEADS ON THE ENGINE.YOU MUST CHECK YOU PUSH ROD ALIGNMENT WITH YOUR ROCKER ARMS.YOU MIGHT HAVE TO GRIND THE HOLES IN THE GUIDE PLATES TO MOVE THEM AROUND ON THE STUDS.MAKE SURE YOU USE HARDENDED PUSH RODS WITH THE GUIDE PLATES.

There's something that needs clarification here before you ruin a set of guide plates. When Erik said you might have to grind the holes in the guide plates, he meant the hole where the stud goes through to hold them onto the head, not the slots where the pushrods ride. Sometimes you have to re-manufacture parts that you buy to make them work right. You may have understood, but I just want to make sure. Also, the plates are hardened, so you can't drill them. That's why Erik said "grind". Best way is a small round stone in a die grinder or in an electric drill motor if you don't have a grinder and air to run it.

If you plan to use stamped rockers, check for clearance where they pivot on the stud through the entire lift of the valve. Also check for clearance between the bottom of the spring retainer and the valve seal at full lift.

Also check for coil bind in the springs. (spring stacking solid at or before full lift).