Originally posted by pat mccarthy
not all crank are the same as far as how they heat treating like callies or brc some are nitride hardened wich may not be as deep like 0.020 or less.i have used about 12 scats and they work .and some cheaper ones than them. how do you set the rear cap ? i would like see more than less for racing .006 to .008 if it was on the small side i would sand the thrust to get it were i like it .i do not cut cranks. but i do check them out very good . my crank grinders that cut cranks say. eagle crank are not to hot . i may have used one in a big block a long time a go but i can not say it .would i buy one for a customers engine ?this is how it would be for me 1 st callies /howards 2 scat 3 ohio crank. this would before someone with out alot of money scat and ohio seam to be ths best for the money. think all the up and down that you do and you run a stick may be hamming the trust a bit and setting the cap a bit .so it would not stay the same. i never lost to much sleep on end trust of a crank and the rods at 020 sound good to me .this what i think and have used a lot of the china cranks and do not want to pi$$ some off but that is the way i see it
I torque all the caps in 5 steps starting with the middle at the lowest possible torque setting and then go to the cap on each side of it working outward.When I am done with that I take a dead-blow hammer and hit a couple times in each direction then I go back to the next highest torque setting and start the process all over again.To get my thrust right I take a palm sander and work my way around the thrust on both sides trying to remove equall amounts of material checking it with a mic. as I go.Once I think I am cloce I (mock it) back up and place the dial indicator on it and pry and see what I get.If I am not happy I pull it back down and sand some more. I agree with what you said about the China made crank.It is hard for me to justify a Callies,or Crower of a L.A. billet. crank in the class we run.