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Thread: Churping Sound
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    JamesD is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Jul 2003
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    Minnesota
    Car Year, Make, Model: 1964 Chevy Impala
    Posts
    30

    Churping Sound

     



    Hello All - I noticed today when standing behind the car a slight churping sound coming from one pipe. Could this be just something rubbing on the pipe or could it be an internal part?


    Also, the fuel gauge seems to be stuck on full, any suggestions on how to get this thing working without dropping the tank? Could it be the gauge in the dash or is it in the tank? Any methods on how to narrow the problem?

    Also - 8o)........when I step on the gas, it does not hit passing gear.......am I missing something?

    1964 Impala
    SB Corvette 283
    2-speed powerglide

    James

  2. #2
    JamesD is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 1964 Chevy Impala
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    thanks for the quick reply. Where is the "Fuel Sender" located,
    on the fuel pump, on the carb????

    James

  3. #3
    fg67 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Torrance, CA
    Car Year, Make, Model: 1967 Camaro Convertable
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    5

    Smile

     



    Is your tank full? I had this issue when I had my tank full and after I used the car for couple of days, then the gage was ok.

  4. #4
    club327's Avatar
    club327 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 70 Holden Utility
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    James. A Fuel gauge relies on a single wire connected to the sender unit to provide the variable signal for the gauge to respond to. The sender unit itself is a variable resistence to ground and varies the electrical connection to ground depending on how much fuel's in tha tank. The gauge with its power supply at the dash end, should react to changes to the earth connection at the tank sender unit if all's well. Later model cars read full when there's no resistence to earth ( sender wire touching the chassis/body )and empty when the resistence is high (such as a disconnected sender wire ). In your case it may be the opposite. Either way, you should get differing gauge readings by playing the wire on/off against the chassis/tank with ignition on (engine off please). If there's no responce to the gauge you need to check the power supply and the earth signal at the gauge end. If these checked out okay then its hasta lavista to the gauge.
    It's been 17 years since I last touched a Power Glide so here we go fellas. The Glide like most GM autos of that time, relied on the modulator to monitor engine load, and the governor to monitor the vehicle speed. They're there to vary the pressures in the valve body. The valve body has valves that respond the the varying engine load and vehicle speed pressure and with them both calculates when to shift. Now the modulator is responsible for normal driving signals - for example. If you take off slowly, the high vacuum signal at the modulator means that the trans' will up shift early. Heavier acceleration from take off means a weaker vacuum signal and a later upshift. When u negotiate a turn, the drop in the vacuum signal should get the tran's to respond by down shifting, providing the vehicle's speed is low enough (watched by the governor). So if the vacuum pipe falls off the modulator, you should now know that the trans will upshift extremely late, even if you're barely on the throttle. A stuck governor can have a similar effect. It may cause the gears to hang on or it may cause em' to change early. Either way, if it has more than 2 gears, the shifts should be effected equally. But if you found it upshifted normally say, from 1st into 2nd gear but took forever to go into 3rd gear, then it's definately a problem in one or more valves in the valve body. Luckily for you, the Glide's prob is external and should be easily fixed. The glide has a metal rod connected to the carburetor throttle linkage. This rod goes all the way down to the side of the trans and is indirectly connected to a valve in the valve body. When you floor the throttle James, the rod should move downwards and cause a forced downshift/kickdown providing the car's speed is not say over 50mph(?). Remember, the modulator's for normal driving duties, the kickdown rod is for when you gotta get movin big time and want that lower gear in a flash! So have a look. Is the rod there? If it is you need to observe for its action when the throttle is fully opened. The rod should begin to move downwards just as the throttle is almost fully opened (foot to the floor). The best way to adjust it would be - disconnect the rod at the carb' linkage. Fully open the throttle. Push the kickdown rod as far as it'll go (there's not alot of movement, but u should feel it spring back when released). With the throttle opened and the rod at full travel, the rod should cleanly go in its hole without any misalignment. If it's misaligned, then adjust the rod until it fits the hole nice and neat. That should do the trick James.
    The Th400 and Th 350 trannies did away with the kickdown rod and used an elctrical solanoid that was triggered by a switch somewhere near the accelerator. Still with that modulator monitoring engine load. Rob
    My aim is not to conquer my space, but to conquer all my fears.

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