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06-01-2005 07:09 PM #13
Cam vender should be the same as lifter, valve spring, crank gear, cam gear, chain, pushrod, and rocker arm vender. That way all the parts are designed to work together.
You have to replace the lifters if you replace the cam, they wear together, unless it roller. Non roller cams let the lifters drag across the cam lobes. They wear, nothing you can do about it.
If you replace the lifters you should replace the pushrods. Again...they wear together. And if you replace the pushrods. Pushrods wear into the rocker seats, rockers wear into the rocker fulcrums (unless they are roller).
I'd say if I had to skimp to save money, I would atleast put in new lifters with a new cam.
Roll the existing (clean) pushrods on a piece of (clean) glass to see if they are bent.
Bottom line, you should inspect each part for wear. Parts that wore together should be reassembled together with the part it wore with.
There are valve train parts trays for this, but you can get by with labeling plastic baggies.
The heads you have are pre 1979 heads and intakes flow 152 CFM while the exhaust ports flow 93 CFM. They use the larger flat seat spark plugs.
As for the crank - depends how deep the grooves are - maybe can be turned, if not you should be able to get a seasoned useable crank from the machine shop. Many often buy cranks just for folks who have one that can't be turned to get it into a usable condition.
Mine is turned .010 under, so you just use matching bearings when you do the build. The machine shop can tell you if the crank is usable.
You need to decide which ring material you will use, and tell the machine shop. Moly rings require a different cross-hatch than chrome rings, etc... and seal different. If the shop needs to bore the block - then you need to buy the pistons first, because they will bore and hone the block to fit the pistons. If they say it needs bored 10 over, then you buy 10 over pistons. The shop mics them and bores the cylinders for the correct fit, then hones for the cross-hatch to match the ring type you intend to use.
If you have a machine shop assemble your heads, you have no worries. If you assemble them - there are a dozen things to sort out and check.
Those Performer Kits require bigger springs and the heads require machining and modification to out the parts on because the stocker springs are inadequate for the cam lift.
GPZILLA - anything slower is just a speed bump.





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