Thread: 350

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g'day i have a 350 that has been sitting for some years and it is really hard to turn by hand even with the plugs out does anyone have some suggestions as the starter barely turns it over.also I have a solid cam and don't know the specs on it and I want to know what to set the valve lash at?and what's the easiest way to adjust the lash when number 1 is at TDC on compression stroke as I have been told you can adjust number 1 intake & exhaust as well as3'4 and8 and2,5 and7 intake valves then turn the crank 1 revolution then adjust #2,5,6 and7 exhaust valves as well as3,4,6 and 8 intake valves is this true? or do you have to do 1 cylinder at a time in the firing order?
thanks holenhqss.

holenhqss, I've always done them one at a time because of working on many different motors with different firing orders. On a SBC, I turn the motor until #1 intake is at full lift, then turn the crank one complete revolution and adjust #1 intake, then turn the crank 1/4 turn (90 degrees) and adjust #8 intake, then another 1/4 turn and adjust #4 intake and so forth. When I'm through with the intakes, I start from the beginning on #1 exhaust at full lift, give the crank one full turn, adjust #1 exhaust and so on. This may be the slow and dumb way to do it, but in this manner, I'm assured that the cam lobe is exactly on the heel when I adjust that valve. Here's a chart that does the same thing, they just say it in a different way, you're still turning the crank 1/4 turn at a time...
http://www.centuryperformance.com/va...sp#Quick%20Way

If you don't have the specs on the cam showing the lash, I'd set them cold at 0.025" to start the motor. Then when the motor is up to temp, adjust them again hot at 0.022" to 0.026", your choice. tightening up the lash will effectively give you more duration and add power on the top end, while loosening the lash will effectively decrease the duration and make more bottom end power.