Thread: Camshaft

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Pushrods, then lifters, then the cam. If you plan to re-use the cam, keep the lifters and pushrods in order where they were on the cam. Go to www.summitracing.com and do a search for SUM-9000013 to see an organizer used for this purpose. You can make one at home from a piece of wood with holes of the proper size drilled in it

If you're installing a new cam, always use new lifters and pushrods. Some guys will re-use the old pushrods, but I never do. They're just not that expensive for the peace of mind that I get from the change.

By the way, here's a pretty decent article on degreeing the new cam in....
http://www.automotivearticles.com/De...amshafts.shtml

One additional thought, always, ALWAYS, use lifters, pushrods, valve springs, keepers and retainers from the same manufacturer that ground your cam. Don't try to mix and match parts from different sources when choosing your valvetrain parts.
And use the springs that the cam grinder recommends for the cam. Very, very important.

For breaking in a new flat tappet cam, pre-lube the oil galleys with a tool made for the purpose and turn the motor over manually with a long bar on the crank bolt at least two complete revolutions while priming. Set the timing and prime the carb before you turn the key. The new cam ain't gonna tolerate a whole lot of grindin' on the starter without some splash lube from the crank. Bring the rpm's up to about 2,500 for about 20 minutes, while monitoring oil pressure and water temp. I also use a bottle of GM Engine Oil Supplement in the oil. Get it at any GM dealer at the parts counter. It contains molybdenum disulfide, an extreme pressure lubricant that your cam lobes will like. After 20 minutes, shut it down and change the oil and filter and add another bottle of Supplement. Change oil and filter again at 300 miles. No further oil additives should be necessary. That's how I do it, others' methods will vary.