Welcome to Club Hot Rod!  The premier site for everything to do with Hot Rod, Customs, Low Riders, Rat Rods, and more. 

  •  » Members from all over the US and the world!
  •  » Help from all over the world for your questions
  •  » Build logs for you and all members
  •  » Blogs
  •  » Image Gallery
  •  » Many thousands of members and hundreds of thousands of posts! 

YES! I want to register an account for free right now!  p.s.: For registered members this ad will NOT show

 

Thread: whats the best weight oil for sbc &whats good oil presure
          
   
   

Reply To Thread
Page 1 of 3 1 2 3 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 36
  1. #1
    blewbyou2 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    northern california
    Car Year, Make, Model: 57 CHEVY PICKUP
    Posts
    31

    whats the best weight oil for sbc &whats good oil presure

     



    just wondering what the best weight motor oil to use in sbc i just built a new 350 @450hp and need to decide what weight to go with ,also what is considered good oil presure on a warmed up motor at idle, thanks

  2. #2
    blewbyou2 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    northern california
    Car Year, Make, Model: 57 CHEVY PICKUP
    Posts
    31

    im going to go buy the oil pump tomorrow and button up everything , so i need to decide whether to use a melling m55 or a m55hv , or a new style melling 10555 , these are whats in stock at the local part house ,anyone have a recomendation ,thanks for the quik response

  3. #3
    76GMC1500 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Posts
    1,176

    I like 10w40, but I can't get any oil pressure with it so I'm stuck with 20w50.

  4. #4
    robot's Avatar
    robot is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Tucson
    Car Year, Make, Model: 39 Ford Deluxe Coupe
    Posts
    2,146

    Is it a Chevy roller lifter motor? They recommend a drastically different oil for some of the crate motors from GM. Did you buy the motor from a Chev dealer?

  5. #5
    Thunderbucket's Avatar
    Thunderbucket is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Mission B.C.
    Car Year, Make, Model: 1962 Thunderbird
    Posts
    354

    25/40 pounds at idle would be normal oil pressure in a run in motor.
    If your running your motor in,,then your gonna want to change your oil and filter more frequently for a while,( i would change it first after 150 mile,,,and then again after 500 miles),,I stick with straight wieghts,,,non of this 10w or 20w crap,,,it's just a hold over for me from my day's as a diesel mechanic.
    Typical big diesel engines will go over a million miles before rebuild if they are properly serviced.
    I use straight 40wt oil in all my vehicles, and i have never had a failure due to insufficient lubrication.
    But then i also use a cheap oil to flush my motor first( I change oil and filter the first time and put in cheap oil) then i change filters again and put in the good old 40wt.
    also decide now whether your gonna use synthetic or standard.
    "I don't know everything and i like it that way"

  6. #6
    Swifster's Avatar
    Swifster is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Mulberry, FL
    Car Year, Make, Model: 1964 Studebaker Daytona
    Posts
    438

    Originally posted by techinspector1
    I use Castrol GTX 10-W-30 year 'round in everything.

    If I had 50 lbs at cruise and 30 lbs at idle, I'd be happy. You need minimum 10 lbs for each 1,000 rpm's.
    The 10 lbs for every 1000 rpm's is an old tale. I'm sure you'd want more than 10 lbs at idle. At the same time, engines capable of 7000 rpm's do not need 70 psi.

    Between 35 to 45 psi at idle and up to 55 lbs at speed would be sufficient. I run 5W30 Mobil 1 in my daily driver. As I'm sure you won't be doing any sub-zero driving. a synthetic 10W30 would be good for street use.

    While breaking the engine in, use dino oil so the rings will seat. Sometimes synthetics work too well and the rings may no seat if used right away.

    I'd run the engine to 300 miles, do an oil change, and then change to synthetic at 2000 to 3000 miles.
    ---Tom

    1964 Studebaker Daytona

  7. #7
    lt1s10's Avatar
    lt1s10 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    rustburg,
    Car Year, Make, Model: 1997 CHEVY.S10 LT1-350
    Posts
    4,096

    i use AMS oil 0W30, 15-20 at idle and 40 at cruise. ill change the filter around 12,000 miles and want live long enough to have to change the oil again.
    Mike
    check my home page out!!!
    http://hometown.aol.com/kanhandco2/index.html




  8. #8
    chevy 37's Avatar
    chevy 37 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Auburn
    Car Year, Make, Model: 1937 chevy truck& 33 fordtruck
    Posts
    3,007

    All I ever used was 10w-40w and its worked fine for me in our cold winter and hot summers.
    Keep smiling, it only hurts when you think it does!

  9. #9
    Swifster's Avatar
    Swifster is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Mulberry, FL
    Car Year, Make, Model: 1964 Studebaker Daytona
    Posts
    438

    Originally posted by techinspector1
    Tom, that 10/1000 rule of thumb came from Smokey Yunick, God rest his soul. I'm sure that by the time he passed, he'd forgotten more about internal combustion engines than you and I together will ever know.
    I respect Smokey as much as the next guy (gotta love the 15/16ths Chevelle!), but more engineering went into the big threes cars than Smokey could ever have dreamed of. Watch the oil pressure guage on any car you are in. My Ranger, even at 90 MPH won't be less than 35 psi or more than 55 psi.

    I can see upping the pressure on an engine built 'loose', but when running normal clearances this extra pressure is not needed. Check with NASCAR teams running engines at 9000 rpm's and I'll guarantee you they are not running 90 psi.

    The LS1 style engine going in the Stude is being set up with the stock clearances as a guide, and I don't plan on raising the oil pressure any.
    ---Tom

    1964 Studebaker Daytona

  10. #10
    dr_bowtie's Avatar
    dr_bowtie is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Elkhart
    Car Year, Make, Model: 1957 chevy Belair
    Posts
    316

    As far as the oil pump is concerned....what pan are you using?

    If you are using the stock pan I would use the m55 pump....

    If you use a deep sump pan you could opt for a m55hv but it's you decision...but I wouldn't.....

    On a stock pan you would not want to use a hv pump on a new engine because with enough rpm's you can literally run the engine out of oil ( insuficient drain back time/ not enough reserve)

    I really personally don't recomend using a hv pump unless needed because with a hv you can move the oil thru the engine too fast not giving the oil enough cool down time before being reused....thus ending up with oil being hotter than need be...just my 2 cents....

  11. #11
    blewbyou2 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    northern california
    Car Year, Make, Model: 57 CHEVY PICKUP
    Posts
    31

    first i'd like to say im glad i found this place , ive looked around the net for a while trying to find a good place to exchange information on hot rod chevy motors ,and never really found a good home, ive been building this motor for a few months now and im just about ready to fire her up, built the whole thing from scratch,its been an expereance , and im sure my wife is about to divorce me ,
    anyway i talked to melling tech today ,and read a bunch last nite and came to the conclusion that i can use the m55 or the newer
    10552 w/10% more volume , my part houses only have the m55 in stock and at 13.00 im going to put that in and try it , if the oil presure is on the low side at idle i'lll switch over to the 10552 +10% unit, yes i have the stock oil pan

  12. #12
    DennyW is offline Junior Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    city
    Car Year, Make, Model: catch 22
    Posts
    0

    Originally posted by blewbyou2
    first i'd like to say im glad i found this place , ive looked around the net for a while trying to find a good place to exchange information on hot rod chevy motors ,and never really found a good home, ive been building this motor for a few months now and im just about ready to fire her up, built the whole thing from scratch,its been an expereance , and im sure my wife is about to divorce me ,
    anyway i talked to melling tech today ,and read a bunch last nite and came to the conclusion that i can use the m55 or the newer
    10552 w/10% more volume , my part houses only have the m55 in stock and at 13.00 im going to put that in and try it , if the oil presure is on the low side at idle i'lll switch over to the 10552 +10% unit, yes i have the stock oil pan
    I'm going to catch it now, but, Using a high volume pump, only means there is enough oil to be maintained as needed. The high pressure is controlled by your engine clearances, and what relief valve spring you install in the pump. Melling will explain this to you. As you already have found out from what you said.
    It's like trying to suck your milkshake throug a straw. You want the little straw, or the big straw. Now, don't get me wrong, they make HV pumps with a way bigger inlet. I'm not saying use that one. There is a limit.

    As far as the track runners, they only make 7 passes before they tear down. They don't want much oil pressure. They want all the horse power they can get. 60 is about the limit, how ever on some, they cut the oil pressure mid stream to increase power. And, they use racing oil, not oil like an everyday Joe uses. jmo
    Last edited by DennyW; 02-25-2005 at 06:11 PM.

  13. #13
    DennyW is offline Junior Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    city
    Car Year, Make, Model: catch 22
    Posts
    0

    Originally posted by DennyW
    I'm going to catch it now, but, Using a high volume pump, only means there is enough oil to be maintained as needed. The high pressure is controlled by your engine clearances, and what relief valve spring you install in the pump. Melling will explain this to you. As you already have found out from what you said.
    It's like trying to suck your milkshake throug a straw. You want the little straw, or the big straw. Now, don't get me wrong, they make HV pumps with a way bigger inlet. I'm not saying use that one. There is a limit.

    As far as the track runners, they only make 7 passes before they tear down. They don't want much oil pressure. They want all the horse power they can get. 60 is about the limit, how ever on some, they cut the oil pressure mid stream to increase power. And, they use racing oil, not oil like an everyday Joe uses. jmo
    Heres a couple of test charts. I use Havoline myself.
    Last edited by DennyW; 03-12-2007 at 10:57 PM.

  14. #14
    DennyW is offline Junior Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    city
    Car Year, Make, Model: catch 22
    Posts
    0

    Originally posted by DennyW
    Heres a couple of test charts. I use Havoline myself.
    Last edited by DennyW; 03-12-2007 at 10:57 PM.

  15. #15
    blewbyou2 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    northern california
    Car Year, Make, Model: 57 CHEVY PICKUP
    Posts
    31

    i realize the std 55 is suppost to be adequate in the envirment im going to use it in , my concern is pretty much soley based around having excellent warm ''idle'' presure , just in this thread alot of you guys are insinuating you wish you had better warm idle presure, w/a 10-30 wt
    ive read quiteafew tech articals where they want you to fire a fresh motor up and take it right up to 1500-2000 rpms , because they thought the std oil pump may not supply enough oil at a regular
    idle
    thats why im thinking of using the 10552 pump , just 10% more volume, i dont think im going to have a chance to run the sucker dry, unless i was running 6000+ rpms across the mohave desert

    am i wrong?

Reply To Thread
Page 1 of 3 1 2 3 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
Links monetized by VigLink