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Thread: Part Identification Chevy Big Block 454
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    abourne is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Part Identification Chevy Big Block 454

     



    We are currently busy with our first rebuild of a Chevy 454 big block and we are following the workbench series by Tony E Huntimer. We are on the stage where we rotate the engine to start removing the bottom. When rotating the engine a rod fell out. See attached image. Can anyone assist with the identification of this part and advise on where this part goes

    IMG_0758.JPG

  2. #2
    DennyW is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    I hope you like a little joking!!!
    PUT THE WRENCH DOWN... WALK AWAY SLOWLY... hahaha, Just kidding...

    That rod goes from the distributor to the oil pump. There is supposed to be, lets say plastic sleeve which holds it on. That is probably in pieces now, somewhere in the pan...

    Example of oil pump shaft buching...
    https://www.ebay.com/i/311798290265?chn=ps

    https://www.google.com/search?q=dist...w=1472&bih=695
    Last edited by DennyW; 12-26-2017 at 12:47 PM.
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  3. #3
    abourne is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    LMFAO. Thanks a mil DennyW. That was a huge help. My son and I are having a blast doing this rebuild
    DennyW likes this.

  4. #4
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    techinspector1 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    The oil pump drive begins at the crankshaft. The crankshaft is connected to the camshaft by a chain drive arrangement which drives the camshaft at half the crankshaft speed. There is a gear that is ground into the rear end of the camshaft that engages with a similar gear that is located on the end of the ignition distributor. As the camshaft turns, the camshaft also turns the distributor shaft. The distributor shaft has a drive arrangement on the bottom of the driven gear which mates up with an oil pump driveshaft (the part you asked about) which drives the oil pump gears which pressurize the engine oil and allows the motor to operate on its bearings. The other end of the distributor shaft is fitted with a rotor which distributes voltage to the distributor cap and then through wires to the spark plugs.

    Crank up this video and fast forward it to 3:15 and start watching. It will show you the oil pump intermediate shaft that you asked about and where it goes in the motor. This video is about a 350 Chevy, but it is the same arrangement on a 454 big block.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nmR--EYH4TQ
    .
    Last edited by techinspector1; 12-26-2017 at 02:04 PM.
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  5. #5
    abourne is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Thanks so much techinspector1. Your response is awesome

  6. #6
    DennyW is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    One other thing on that plastic sleeve. Heat it up in hot water first. Just so it's not cold. That will help with the snap on to the shaft install. (More pliable) More help as you need it...

  7. #7
    techinspector1's Avatar
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    Unlike some forums, you'll find the fellows and gals on Club Hot Rod to be very helpful to fellows who are new to the hobby. All of us remember our first time with a wrench in our hands and how difficult it was to find a mentor who would be patient with us and teach us. Some of us went on to have auto repair and hot rodding make our living for us, while others kept it as a side gig to have fun with. I was in the latter group, having begun at the age of 13 and still mentoring and doing an occasional brake job at the age of 75.

    Some will go steady at it for their entire lifetime, while others will take a respite to raise kids or learn another trade to support their families or build a farm or for whatever reason. Still others get a belly full of it after a short time and never pick up a wrench again the rest of their lives.

    We also are very tolerant of the type of vehicle that you want to play with, whereas some of the other automotive forums are very picky and won't allow certain years or types of playthings. But if it turns money into noise (thank you Mr. Parmenter), we here at Club Hot Rod want to hear about it. My name is Richard and I would be very interested in having you and your son stick around and tell us about your build.

    Assuming you are rebuilding the motor, what vehicle will receive the package?

    What will be the purpose of the recipient? All street? Mostly street, Some drag? Some street, Mostly drag? All drag?
    Street and Offroad? Mostly Offroad? Boat? Flatbottom suicide missile or cruise vessel? Airboat?

    What fuel will be used? What cylinder heads?

    Will this be a quick and dirty rebuild, where you hone the cylinders, install new rings and bearings and call it good?

    Do you have a power goal in mind?

    Anticipated RPM range? Is fuel mileage important? Carburetor or EFI?

    Tire size? Rear gear ratio? Transmission to be used? If auto, what stall torque converter?
    .
    Last edited by techinspector1; 12-26-2017 at 02:58 PM.
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  8. #8
    DennyW is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    One more youtube video when you get it back together.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jPSPwLMlLB0

    One other for kicks:
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3xgBp9JY9mY

    You can also do what I call walk the dog with the distributor. I use that most of the time, so I don't have to rotate the engine... Hahaha

    Walk the dog with it...

    ps: Here you go. Since you have already had the distributor out, I won't detail
    that part. Maybe this will help you get it ok.

    You can drop the distributor in at any point. Remove distributor cap, and you
    are ready to start the walk. On a Chevy type, once you get it seated in the
    manifold, at what ever place it will seat all the way down, that is the starting
    point. You will more than likely be off. Does not matter at this point. Just make
    sure you have the No. 1 cylinder at top dead center, AND, on the compression
    stroke, with the timing mark at zero, or the set timing you want to run. What
    you do is use both hands, pickup on the housing with one hand slightly, and with
    the other hand on the rotor, feel for when you can move the rotor just enough
    to clear the cam gear one tooth. That means it's just above the cam gear, and
    turn it so it just slips over to the next tooth of the cam gear, set it back down
    with a little wiggle, and it will move the oil pump rod at the same time. Keep
    doing this one tooth at a time until you reach your marked spot. I call i
    Last edited by DennyW; 12-27-2017 at 06:17 AM.

  9. #9
    abourne is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Hi Guys,

    How long does it typically take for a moderator to approve a post. It has been almost 4 days now. Should I repost and not include any links?

  10. #10
    DennyW is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Yes, If I remember right, I think you have to post 5 or more...

  11. #11
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    Yes, do a re-post without any links. Once the Mod gets to know you, he'll ease off the security for you.

  12. #12
    abourne is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Thanks a mil guys. You are awesome. Richard you are so right that there are very few forums now days that are actually helpful. What started out as a hobby for my son and I has quickly turned into a passion and there is no better time spent than tinkering around a garage with your son. It is guys like you that allow newbies like us to continue the passion and not give up.

    Our vehicle is going to be an off road rock crawler. We are building a tube chassis based on the hell raiser 3 plans from azrockcrawler dot com This will be a completely off road vehicle due to the tube chassis

    We currently have the stock cast iron heads but are going to replace them with aluminium heads. Any suggestions?

    This will not be a quick and dirty rebuild. We are wanting to get 700 horsepower, fuel mileage is not important. We have a Holley 750 CFM Deamon carb

    We have 44 inch super swampers with a 14 bolt corporate military rear axle with 4:10 gears and a Dana 60 front axle. We have a NP 205 transfer case and a Turbo 350R transmission

    One additional item we do need suggestions on is the setup people typically use to run the engine standalone

    Once again thanks guys for all your help. It is great to know there are still good people out there

    Happy New year to everyone

  13. #13
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    techinspector1 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    There is an old hot rodder's axiom that states "If some is good, more is better and too much is just right."

    You guys remind me of some of the wild notions that my friends and I had after reading Hot Rod, Car Craft and Rod & Custom magazines back in the 50's. We put all kinds of creations together in our minds that never worked out in reality and I'm bettin' that most of what you're thinkin' will never see the light of day either, but I'm willin' to play along and see what happens.

    Pat McCarthy could do a much better job at this than I can, but I'll give it a go.......

    If I were doing this, first off, I would be building for torque, not horsepower. That would call for some small intake runner heads, such as the peanut port BBC heads, or if you are bucks-up, a set of Airflow Research 265's. Here is a very long read from Grumpy, a fellow who is no longer with us, but who left us with a plethora of information.....
    tips on building a peanut port big block combo | Grumpys Performance Garage

    Cam would be a hydraulic roller, 220-225 degrees intake duration, ground on a 108 or 110 lobe separation angle. Pistons would be forged and figured for a 9.75:1 to 10.00:1 static compression ratiio. Block decks would be cut to zero to the piston crowns and fitted with a composition-type head gasket to facilitate a 0.035" to 0.045" squish/quench. Clearance pistons and ring end gaps for N2O.

    Intake manifold would be a tall dual-plane, such as the Edelbrock 7161 Performer RPM. Use the Air Gap, #7562 if the car will always be operated in a high-temp environment. Lower ambient temperatures could cause drivability problems due to the cooler-running temperature of the manifold. Fuel/air mixture needs some heat to help atomize the mixture so that it will burn properly.

    Built properly, this should make a ~500 ft/lb motor. Adding a 200 shot of nitrous would reach your 700 ft/lbs of torque , which should be enough to shread everything behind it.

    I figured some miles per hour at 4000 rpm's (max torque) and pretty much determined that you will need to use an Atlas 4-speed transfer box with the 2.22 / 3.80 / 10.34 option. At 4000 rpm's, max torque, here is how that plays out with 48" tall tires....

    Low 3, 42.49:1 final drive, 13.45 mph
    Low 2, 15.61:1 final drive, 36.61 mph
    Low 1, 11.18:1 final drive, 51.11 mph
    High 1, 4.11:1 final drive, 139.03 mph

    Now, I've never built one of these, but after seeing these numbers, I would be thinking of backing down to 42 inch or smaller tires or more gear.......OR BOTH......... 4000 rpm's, High 1, 4.11 final drive, 42" tire, 121.65 mph......... 4000 rpm's, High 1, 5.13 final drive, 42" tire, 97.47 mph.........In Low 3, at 4000 rpm's, with a 5.13 gear and 42" tire, top speed would be 9.43 mph.

    The point is, you would not be building a Bonneville machine, so it does not need a high top speed.

    I'd use a 10", 2500-2800 stall converter with a ton of cooling apparatus, big core, big fan, lots of fresh air......LOTS.

    Here's the link to speed, gears, tires, etc.....
    http://www.wallaceracing.com/calc-gear-tire-rpm-mph.php
    .
    Last edited by techinspector1; 01-01-2018 at 12:10 PM.
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