Thread: BBC 402 looking for advice on head work, cam and stall

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This thing definitely rocked the freeway before I broke it apart............
The speedometer indicates 10 MPH higher than actual MPH. Verified via GPS.

I would not use a wire wheel to clean the deck. A 3M Roloc surface conditioning disc works well if you are careful with it. Don’t use those on aluminum. A razor blade with a razor blade holder might be the best way. Either way be patient and take your time.

A nice sharp wood chisel works well to scrape surfaces clean---------I like the 1 inch wide ones

Originally Posted by jerry clayton

A nice sharp wood chisel works well to scrape surfaces clean---------I like the 1 inch wide ones

That sounds like a good idea.

I prefer a one inch putty knife, with slightly rounded corners. I have a favorite which I've been using for years.

firebird-I've used putty knives and socalled gaskey scrapers------found the wood chisel better----try one-------they are stiffer, sharper edge, better handle--------just don't knick up the edge without resharpening it or you can scratch aluminum.

I'd be afraid I'd gouge something with the chisel - and destroy a perfectly good chisel in the process.

You use the chisel just like you'd use the putty knife-----you don't hammer on it-it has a much better handle and you'll do a much better job with it------

Yeh-and it was a 2017 6.2 with trans-probably accessories, wiring EFI, exhaust pipes/cats overdrive----- and it had 10k miles-----

Originally Posted by jerry clayton

Yeh-and it was a 2017 6.2 with trans-probably accessories, wiring EFI, exhaust pipes/cats overdrive----- and it had 10k miles-----

Indeed, it had just about everything. LT v8 + 8 speed automatic included but no ECU/wiring. All for 4400.

Junk yard LS eh? Scares the crap out of me. Never even seen one of those outside of a vehicle let alone built one up. Been watching lots of vids where guys are talking about how easy they are to manage though and how cheap the parts are. Some folks argue they're so good that if you get a 'good' one ( meaning no obvious issues with the rotating assembly or valve train ), it's good to just install and run regardless of mileage! That seems like total BS to me although I know it's been done as I've seen lots of such swaps out there. Some of them didn't seem to run very good either.

I'm not a fan of gambling on used equipment from the salvage yard. Now if a case can be made for rebuilding a junk yard core on budget, then I could be interested but it seems the costs would quickly make that a no go.

-unix

Originally Posted by unixoracle

Indeed, it had just about everything. LT v8 + 8 speed automatic included but no ECU/wiring. All for 4400.

Junk yard LS eh? Scares the crap out of me. Never even seen one of those outside of a vehicle let alone built one up. Been watching lots of vids where guys are talking about how easy they are to manage though and how cheap the parts are. Some folks argue they're so good that if you get a 'good' one ( meaning no obvious issues with the rotating assembly or valve train ), it's good to just install and run regardless of mileage! That seems like total BS to me although I know it's been done as I've seen lots of such swaps out there. Some of them didn't seem to run very good either.

I'm not a fan of gambling on used equipment from the salvage yard. Now if a case can be made for rebuilding a junk yard core on budget, then I could be interested but it seems the costs would quickly make that a no go.

-unix

Remember, a salvage yard is just that, not a junk yard. Most vehicles were running great when they got wrecked. I put one in with 140k , I checked brgs and they looked like brand new yet. I did have to put intake gaskets in which is stupid easy on an LS motor.

Well how much was that trans build??????? and the accessory drive packages from the 2 or 3 companies that make decent ones would cost around 25-3000-----

And even if it didn't have ecu/wiring, GM sells a package reasonable-------

Something to consider about your 1970 package------------48 years that the parts bolted together have had constant stress on the threaded fasteners and the portion of the block, etc ---------rods tend to split along bolt hole, threads pull out of block for mains and head bolts (chev decks have pass thru bolt threads so some of the end of the bolts are in the coolant and rusty-this takes a toll on the threads when removing the bolts) Unless you are doing a numbers matching resto-------go will the 6.2 ls--------lighter weight, more fuel economy, performance, nicer accessories, lots of aftermarket stuff available reasonably priced-------

Like Tech said, revamping an older set of heads can get pretty costly. $600-$700 does not sound out of line. I'm not going to tell you which way to go engine wise, but make sure you try to come up with a reasonable, true cost estimate before you decide which way you want to go.

Back to the scraper subject, You will never find a better scraper than these. I've had the same one for 15 plus yrs as a mechanic and it finally should be sharpened for the first time ( they do it for free ). The Original Superscraper