Thread: New guy from U.K. first build help!!!

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OK Bago, I'll try to help.
Race car cams idle roughly because when the motor is idling, the cam is BELOW its operating range. Stock cams idle smoothly because at idle, the cam is WITHIN its operating range. The operating range of a stock cam is idle to 4200 rpm's. The operating range of a hot rod cam is 2500 to 6000, for instance. So, when you try to idle the cam under 2500, the cam is out of its operating range. Same thing happens when you try to use a hot rod cam with an overdrive transmission. The motor is cruising along at 1800 rpm's, while the cam was designed to operate at a minimum of 2500, for instance. What happens is that the owner gets worse fuel mileage than he did with the stock 3-speed transmission, because the cam is being asked to operate effectively below its bottom operating range limit, which it cannot do. The first thing you have to learn about cams is that they are not a stand-alone part. They need to be orchestrated with all other parts of the motor as well as the torque converter, transmission, differential gears and tire sizes. The main thing that they have to be coordinated with is the static compression ratio.
http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w..._compatibility

Are there young fellows who will use a cam like you are suggesting in order to make people think he has a race motor between the fenders? YES
Is there always a contingent of old fellows who will call these young fellows "posers" and laugh at them? YES.
Is it possible to build a motor that idles rather smoothly, but will blow the doors off a poser vehicle and make the poser look foolish? YES.

The ball is in your court. Do you want to be a poser with a choppy idle and a slow car or do you want our help in building a killer motor, no matter the idle?
Hot rodding not only means building a killer motor, it means putting the car on a diet also. Are you willing to remove parts of the car which do not contribute to the performance of the car, like heavy bumpers and brackets and replace them with fiberglas units? Are you willing to pull all the carpet and insulation out of the floor of the interior? How about the back seat? Would you move the battery to the trunk, over the right rear tire to get better traction? Are you willing to install a posi-traction device in the differential and change the rear gears to something more performance oriented, like a 3.83:1 or 4.11:1 ring and pinion?
Did you want to keep the stock displacement of the 454 or did you want to bore and stroke it to get more cubic inches? What's your budget?
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