Thread: Harmonic balancer on 454 has 4 timing marks.....

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Originally Posted by repoman3809

I also did do any eyeball test on the stud heights. They all appeared close on each bank. I took a straight edge with me, the most I could see was maybe a quarter inch difference, really most where within an eighth though. I couldnt really tell on the springs, I was hoping to get a pic for ya Pat.

I did see some scarring on the outside of the #1 topside rocker(bronze color wore off, bare metal shows) . It looked as if it was rubbing the valve cover. I didnt see anything on the valve cover though. Also most rockers have the same type scarring on the around the stud and lock nut. I assume that is likely normal. But I don't know, you guys tell me.

well they can get marked up around the poly nuts if your not care full . the rocker rubbing is common deal with most all roller rockers were the body is wide and cast covers they can rub. rolling the rocker body on a belt sander is a common it hurts nothing to do this .some makers of roller rockers now make two rockers out of the set that are rounded off

Alright so another update...sort of.

Pulled valve covers and here's what I found:
Good amount of rust on right bank(2-4-6-8). Most around the eight region(cylinder with lowest compression).
Heads had the following info stamped in different places: Merlin / W / NH / 92 / L23 / 1-043
Does have roller rockers(bronze in color, no name I could find).
The pushrod guides have comp cams 4806 stamped on them.
I could see below the intake though the head. There is not roller lifters, so hopefully no roller cam.

I couldn't really perform the leakdown, my generator only got the air compressor to 25 PSI. Then the circuit breaker would blow. I tried it numerous times, but kept doing the same thing. Obviously there isn't electric close to the boat. I went ahead and put 25 into the #1 since I had the tester screw in and #1 TDC. It took the 25 PSI slowly leaked down, but I couldn't feel or hear it coming out anywhere.

I wanted to get pics, but I sat my phone down on a wet surface. The phones camera lens fogged and the pics were bad.

I figure something out on the generator and get back to it tomorrow hopefully.

What do you make of this. There was some super white substance on inside each head. Mostly on top of the rocker studs and inside of valve cover. The oil is fine, the water in the block was fine(remember I pulled apart the front of motor. I could see down in the oil pan and obviously in the water jackets). The stuff was just in the heads, it doesnt look like milky oil, more like some type of assembly lube.

From some other websites I found. It said those heads are intended for marine use only.

Also what you make of the rust?

well that 345 head has been used in boats. i had two sets some that were reworked for off shore but to say it a marine head only? i can buy that head under part number 3063b . that head has a 2.300 valve if the bottom end has a stock piston them the valves could of hit the pistons .white stuff ? hard to say with out seeing it could be lubeaplate ?

Almost looks and feels like crisco.

but to say it a marine head only?

I should say it says intended for Marine.

Originally Posted by repoman3809

Almost looks and feels like crisco.

ran over a sperm whale ?

Originally Posted by repoman3809

Almost looks and feels like crisco.


I should say it says intended for Marine.

no not at all there made were you would use a big cc iron head .they are to big for your marine use if you just have a 030 454 there not to big for a 540 in street use or marine use. if you want a iron head the heads may come with inconel ex valves that would put it in to a marine use or a Nos .. blower or turbo use water or land. there nothing done to the iron head it self to make it only marine that i know of .but there are alum heads that are built for marine use and are coated for salt water . i know of custom merlins in 345 built heads for off shore racing and have custom valves sizes.i just threw out a box of inconel valve out for them. i can not talk about them on a open forum

Originally Posted by repoman3809

What do you make of this. There was some super white substance on inside each head. Mostly on top of the rocker studs and inside of valve cover. The oil is fine, the water in the block was fine(remember I pulled apart the front of motor. I could see down in the oil pan and obviously in the water jackets). The stuff was just in the heads, it doesnt look like milky oil, more like some type of assembly lube.

Also what you make of the rust?

The above mentioned was bothering me. I didnt have much time, so I just wanted to do a few more checks on this today. I checked everything....exhaust tips(black), dipstick(clean oil), pan, though bottom of timing chain cover(clean oil), oil filter(clean oil), water jackets(clean water [remember boat...water pulled n thur outdrive, blown out exhaust]).

But the inside of valve covers is caked in this white crap. Reminds of white hand cleaner or crisco, with maybe a touch of brown tint. It's mainly sticking to the top/inside of the valve cover(more on right bank). Though some on the top of the rockers and some laying in the low points of the head(low stuff is milky). Plus a decent amount of rust all over. The rust is on the head and springs. More on the rear sides of head(6&8-5&7). But the most on the right bank, especially 5-7.

Which reminded me, the exhaust coming out this bank never seemed as strong as the opposite side. The exhaust tips have black rubber flappers to keep the water from coming back in. The exhaust tips sit above the waterline, but under the boats swim platform. The flapper on the left side bank(2-4-6-8) actually hits and marks the above swim platform. The right side(1-3-5-7) doesnt(or not much). This also follows the compression readings(2-4-6-8 reads higher).

I wonder if for whatever reason, I'm getting some serious condensation issues. The right side valve cover has a breather filter, where as the left cover is sent back to air filter. That might explain the rust and white stuff. If so, I wander if the rust is effecting the valves ability to seat.

I sprayed the valves, springs and heads with some lube oil. I tried to get as much of the rust out as I could. We'll see if the helps future tests....

good roller have there name stamp in them gold mostly are crane but comp sells gold rockers harland sharps are red bronze but there knock offs that look alike them . the numbers do not sound right they should be cast in side the head like 30040 oval 30620 rec ports but heads could be a very early set of heads

Originally Posted by pat mccarthy

good roller have there name stamp in them gold mostly are crane but comp sells gold rockers harland sharps are red bronze but there knock offs that look alike them . the numbers do not sound right they should be cast in side the head like 30040 oval 30620 rec ports but heads could be a very early set of heads

I was in the process of searching them when I seen your post. Here a link to what I found:
World Products - MERLIN Rectangular Port Iron Heads

Originally Posted by repoman3809

I was in the process of searching them when I seen your post. Here a link to what I found:
World Products - MERLIN Rectangular Port Iron Heads

them heads are not very good for a mild 454 would work better with a smaller port have to know more about the engine race fule only engine the boat as what you do with it .but were did this thing rpm out at ?. yep the last time i had a set of there heads i had to call them .they did not go by there part number on older heads and thats what i posted they go by id numbers now they put the part numbers on the new heads ?? what the hell ? they can not make it easy

Originally Posted by pat mccarthy

them heads are not very good for a mild 454 would work better with a smaller port have to know more about the engine race fule only engine the boat as what you do with it .but were did this thing rpm out at ?. yep the last time i had a set of there heads i had to call them .they did not go by there part number on older heads and thats what i posted they go by id numbers now they put the part numbers on the new heads ?? what the hell ? they can not make it easy

Not a "RACE" engine, but the dealer did tell me it was in a baja that was in 70mph range(if you wanna believe him). I have no idea where this motor RPM's at. It's never really run out on the water.

The boat 28ft, weights about 6500-7000lbs with full tank and some passengers. Original motor was 4500 RPM at roughly 45-50mph. Was hoping this motor would get me into the 60-65mph range.

would be better with big O ports then them head s will kill you .getting it up an out on plane you need TQ them heads i would not think of using on any thing under 500s you will have to kick to guts out of the 454 with them heads. to big less you want to build a 540or 556

i know i can get you low bottom end power mid range power . just do not know what you want to start with ? first need to see if you have any thing i can start to build on . if not i have some stuff

Honestly I dont think I do. I just sold a chevy 3500 with a good motor back in the spring.

I let the machine shop keep the boats original heads and block. The block had spun bearings, they were bad. Shop said would need to weld in to re line bore(or something like that). But said he wouldn't advise doing so, esp on boat motor. He also told me heads needed some work, went on to say they were the smallest 454 heads made. He actually turned me on to the dealer I bought the new motor from. Maybe I was set up though and though....hope not.

Originally Posted by repoman3809

Honestly I dont think I do. I just sold a chevy 3500 with a good motor back in the spring.

I let the machine shop keep the boats original heads and block. The block had spun bearings, they were bad. Shop said would need to weld in to re line bore(or something like that). But said he wouldn't advise doing so, esp on boat motor. He also told me heads needed some work, went on to say they were the smallest 454 heads made. He actually turned me on to the dealer I bought the new motor from. Maybe I was set up though and though....hope not.

there a shop 30 miles from me that can spay weld mains then i can line bore it but not worth the cost. less it a hit rent block . well that would not be good if they did that .if there nothing to build off of i can build you a long block using my cores or i can get a dart big m block build a pump gas flat top piston hyd roller cam 540 to 565 cid with dart heads or use you heads if there good