i know i can get you low bottom end power mid range power . just do not know what you want to start with ? first need to see if you have any thing i can start to build on . if not i have some stuff
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i know i can get you low bottom end power mid range power . just do not know what you want to start with ? first need to see if you have any thing i can start to build on . if not i have some stuff
you should get that with 450 hp the old 375 merc could do 55 in a sea ray have to look up the TQ on that thing .but i know i can do better with some good heads that are out know . get yours pulled down look it over .pm me tell me what you have to work with and a budget and i will do my best to ring every drop of power out of the engineQuote:
Originally Posted by repoman3809
Honestly I dont think I do. I just sold a chevy 3500 with a good motor back in the spring.Quote:
i know i can get you low bottom end power mid range power . just do not know what you want to start with ? first need to see if you have any thing i can start to build on . if not i have some stuff
I let the machine shop keep the boats original heads and block. The block had spun bearings, they were bad. Shop said would need to weld in to re line bore(or something like that). But said he wouldn't advise doing so, esp on boat motor. He also told me heads needed some work, went on to say they were the smallest 454 heads made. He actually turned me on to the dealer I bought the new motor from. Maybe I was set up though and though....hope not.
there a shop 30 miles from me that can spay weld mains then i can line bore it but not worth the cost. less it a hit rent block . well that would not be good if they did that .if there nothing to build off of i can build you a long block using my cores or i can get a dart big m block build a pump gas flat top piston hyd roller cam 540 to 565 cid with dart heads or use you heads if there goodQuote:
Originally Posted by repoman3809
I do have a few other motors I'd like to get rid of. This is for anyone looking.
I have a nice 305 w tranny that came out of a 1994 GMC Sierra. I repoed the truck for a local bank. The truck was pretty much totaled in the rear end. The bank let the truck sit on my lot 9 months and had a huge storage bill with me. They decided they didnt want the truck and didn't want to pay the storage. I asked for the title several times, but never happened. I didnt have keys so I pulled ignition and through a battery in it. Fired right up, had good oil pressure, sounded great, even had cold AC. Think it had 88k on it. Been sitting on the motor/tranny for 2 years. Scrapped the rest.
Also got a 1952 straight six, complete motor. Been sitting for at least 10 years though. Came of my grandfather, then dads, now my 1952 Ford F2. Dad and I put a Chevy 350 in the old Ford, runs like a scalded dog. LOL Maybe not the best place to announce that type of transplant, but it looks good and runs great.
Also got a few other motors and quite a few old Rochester carbs. I'd have to look and see whats what.
nothing i can do any thing with but craig list would be a good place . i am all set on blocks most the time i just buy bare blocks or short blocks most of the parts i give to the junk manQuote:
Originally Posted by repoman3809
Gas prices on the water are ridiculous, I mean at least a dollar over land prices. And it's crap gas. If your running boost or high compression, you dont get your gas on the water. At least not on the Ohio River in Cincinnati. I dont have a trailer and really didnt plan on getting one anytime soon. So I'd like to save on gas as much as I can.Quote:
Originally Posted by pat mccarthy
Unless I start getting it on land, putting it in 50 gallon barrels and wheeling to the boat, which seems like a lot of work considering the tank holds 105 gallons. LOL
So really I'd like to stay with a mildly aggressive 454. Plus if I went bigger than that I've have to start worrying about the outdrive. As you know Pat those cost just as much as a motor.
I'll see where the leakdown takes me. I know I got room on the block, if needs re-worked. As for the heads, if good, maybe I can work a Craigslist trade and downgrade.
Yeah, I already figured that. I'm sure your looking to move stuff, for space. That's why I through that "This is for anyone looking" comment in their.Quote:
Originally Posted by pat mccarthy
As for Craigslist, tried with no luck.
try the for sale spot on here ,no i have room for a few more blocks :) if i think i can move them but even the stuff i think i can move is moving slow .so engine block have to be very cheap for me to grab them. i really only a buyer of bbc and some other s 460s.. 350 vtech roller enginesQuote:
Originally Posted by repoman3809
no if i built a 540 for marine use for you or any one using dock fuel i would stay at 9to5 i have the long block mark6 roller 330 hp merc if your bottom is shot or a mark 6 roller 489 long block
I plan on listing the flathead here. As for the BBC I figured those move best. I had a hell of a time finding mine. Seems there in high demand and running low on donor blocks.Quote:
Originally Posted by pat mccarthy
The above mentioned was bothering me. I didnt have much time, so I just wanted to do a few more checks on this today. I checked everything....exhaust tips(black), dipstick(clean oil), pan, though bottom of timing chain cover(clean oil), oil filter(clean oil), water jackets(clean water [remember boat...water pulled n thur outdrive, blown out exhaust]).Quote:
Originally Posted by repoman3809
But the inside of valve covers is caked in this white crap. Reminds of white hand cleaner or crisco, with maybe a touch of brown tint. It's mainly sticking to the top/inside of the valve cover(more on right bank). Though some on the top of the rockers and some laying in the low points of the head(low stuff is milky). Plus a decent amount of rust all over. The rust is on the head and springs. More on the rear sides of head(6&8-5&7). But the most on the right bank, especially 5-7.
Which reminded me, the exhaust coming out this bank never seemed as strong as the opposite side. The exhaust tips have black rubber flappers to keep the water from coming back in. The exhaust tips sit above the waterline, but under the boats swim platform. The flapper on the left side bank(2-4-6-8) actually hits and marks the above swim platform. The right side(1-3-5-7) doesnt(or not much). This also follows the compression readings(2-4-6-8 reads higher).
I wonder if for whatever reason, I'm getting some serious condensation issues. The right side valve cover has a breather filter, where as the left cover is sent back to air filter. That might explain the rust and white stuff. If so, I wander if the rust is effecting the valves ability to seat.
I sprayed the valves, springs and heads with some lube oil. I tried to get as much of the rust out as I could. We'll see if the helps future tests....
sounds like condensation on cool down---engines need to get the oil hot enough to vaporize any moiseture in the oil and be vented good enough (pcv or such) to run the moisture thru with the combustable mixture to burn it and discharge it with the exhaust----
I agree. I've seen similar deposits in the rocker cover area on engines that see mostly short runs in the city, never getting a chance to fully warm and cook off moisture. Lubricants have similar molecular makeup with basic soaps, and can build creamy off-white gunk that needs to be vaporized.Quote:
Originally Posted by jerry clayton
That makes sense. The motor has never run long. Its obviously in an area where moisture is abundant. Plus it doesnt have a closed cooling system. It's constantly drawing in cool water and blowing the warm water back out the exhaust. So it stay cooler than most motors.
there no PCV on the boats you blow it in to the flame arrester so it not getting pull out so boat heads can get funky .so heat is the only way it burns out some may draw out of the vent tubes to the arrstorQuote:
Originally Posted by repoman3809
I noticed that.Quote:
Originally Posted by pat mccarthy
The motor has a air breather on the right valve cover. Think for future motor, it should be switched to both lines back to flame arrestor? Or you think the air breather is better? The arrestor does have hookup for 2 lines. It's set up where the line off the left valve cover tees off in both arrestor hookups.
use what you like long as it UL coast guard .one tube off each valve cover to the arrestorQuote:
Originally Posted by repoman3809