Welcome to Club Hot Rod!  The premier site for everything to do with Hot Rod, Customs, Low Riders, Rat Rods, and more. 

  •  » Members from all over the US and the world!
  •  » Help from all over the world for your questions
  •  » Build logs for you and all members
  •  » Blogs
  •  » Image Gallery
  •  » Many thousands of members and hundreds of thousands of posts! 

YES! I want to register an account for free right now!  p.s.: For registered members this ad will NOT show

 

Thread: 454 build for towing
          
   
   

Reply To Thread
Results 1 to 3 of 3
  1. #1
    rustfarmer is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Centerville
    Car Year, Make, Model: 4 first gen chevy 2s, trucks, blazers,63
    Posts
    4

    454 build for towing

     



    new member seeking advice on first big block build. I'm thinking of doing a partial build on a 76 454 that shows very little wear. No ridge at top of bores (can't hang a finger nail on it) and cross hatch still shows on bores, however timing chain was somewhat loose. The big question is that rod side play is about .038 measured between rod pairs on three sets and a bit less on the 4th set. Crank end play is about .016 which I thought I might correct by replacing the thrust/rear main only. I know all this is not the best way, but my funds for this build are extremely limited. I do plan to buy a towing/torque type cam and I guess I will have to replace valve springs due to age and larger lift. Can I live with the rod side play in an engine that will see use only to 5k rpms or less? Is there a factory cam that would save $ and be good for monster torque? I am hoping to run the bottom end as is except for fresh oil pump and timing set, so I could advance the cam 3 or 4 degrees to use a factory cam to save $. Ideas greatly appreciated.

  2. #2
    pat mccarthy's Avatar
    pat mccarthy is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    bay city
    Posts
    10,546

    side clearance at .035 on rods... crank was a re grind ? someone may have hit it abit hard when grinding it. i had some steel gm rods out to .028 race engine .not going to hurt but not going to help any thing . you will throw more oil up on the rods and piston bottoms help keep them cool. its a oil control deal were this and big bearing clearance you have lower oil psi . not really a big deal it will run like that .not some thing i would be happy about but if you have no money . the right way i would check rods for size see if there worn or crank is way wide . if crank. fine a better one.or rods another set . about the thrust ..re bearing . if the crank is not worn on thrust face . it should be about .010 or less end play set thrust bearing . cams there s alot of them any RV cam or the marine cam works good
    Last edited by pat mccarthy; 06-29-2012 at 06:26 PM.
    Irish Diplomacy ..the ability to tell someone to go to Hell ,,So that they will look forward to to the trip

  3. #3
    rustfarmer is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Centerville
    Car Year, Make, Model: 4 first gen chevy 2s, trucks, blazers,63
    Posts
    4

    Thanks for your quick reply, I know this is not ideal sitch, but it should live awhile.

Reply To Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
Links monetized by VigLink