454 build for towing

new member seeking advice on first big block build. I'm thinking of doing a partial build on a 76 454 that shows very little wear. No ridge at top of bores (can't hang a finger nail on it) and cross hatch still shows on bores, however timing chain was somewhat loose. The big question is that rod side play is about .038 measured between rod pairs on three sets and a bit less on the 4th set. Crank end play is about .016 which I thought I might correct by replacing the thrust/rear main only. I know all this is not the best way, but my funds for this build are extremely limited. I do plan to buy a towing/torque type cam and I guess I will have to replace valve springs due to age and larger lift. Can I live with the rod side play in an engine that will see use only to 5k rpms or less? Is there a factory cam that would save $ and be good for monster torque? I am hoping to run the bottom end as is except for fresh oil pump and timing set, so I could advance the cam 3 or 4 degrees to use a factory cam to save $. Ideas greatly appreciated.

side clearance at .035 on rods... crank was a re grind ? someone may have hit it abit hard when grinding it. i had some steel gm rods out to .028 race engine .not going to hurt but not going to help any thing . you will throw more oil up on the rods and piston bottoms help keep them cool. its a oil control deal were this and big bearing clearance you have lower oil psi . not really a big deal it will run like that .not some thing i would be happy about but if you have no money . the right way i would check rods for size see if there worn or crank is way wide . if crank. fine a better one.or rods another set . about the thrust ..re bearing . if the crank is not worn on thrust face . it should be about .010 or less end play set thrust bearing . cams there s alot of them any RV cam or the marine cam works good

Thanks for your quick reply, I know this is not ideal sitch, but it should live awhile.