Thread: Harmonic balancer

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The old one looks good- not hammer on- rubber looks ok but not perfect, or go for new? street engine only. If new, whats a good one to use?

if it has good press on the crank . no hammer marks. rubber not hanning out or bulging . cracking . parts of rubber missing . check to see if TDC is lined up to pointer if way off pitch the damper most of the time i buy stock replacements damper for street mild use .getting hard to find good used ones and not seal cut. new dammpers i use Pioneer.Power bond.Romac. Ati. this line up has to do with use and RPM

Too cheap to fool with a clunk - try Rock Auto parts for stock to racing versions = $30 to $135 for a 'general' 350 Chevy engine

Thank you for the info.

bbc damper are abit more then a 350 sbc . try to stay with the pioneer Iron or power bond steel . there not to bad still lower buck .there cheaper ones and may be better then a old worn out one? i have seen what happens when the ring comes off it.s not good .the best SFI steel dampers are cheaper then the cost of when the outer ring comes off . better steel damper or power bond the press will need to be checked and honed for the right press i check all dampers to crank nose size but most of the steel dampers need to be honed for the right press this can not be done at most guys shops less you have all the Sunnen stuff to do the hone job you need a key way hone and a Sunnen machine to drive it and tools that can read .0001 like jerry and i have

The problem with aftermarket dampers is the bore size. The hole size has to be very exact to yield a press fit that allows the damper to be pressed all the way on and still have the negative clearance required to transfer harmonics from the crankshaft to the inertia ring on the damper. Most of the aftermarket junk I have seen is too large or too small to fit the crank diameter properly.

I recommend you opt for a rebuilt OEM damper. It was originally pressed onto a Chevy crank at the factory and so you know the dimensions are correct. Damper Doctor disassembles the units and hydraulically presses new elastometic material between the hub and ring, while clocking them properly so that the TDC notch is actually at TDC #1.
Damper Doctor Online - Your source for Harmonic Balancers, Motor Mounts, & Drive Shaft Supports

i would not spend a dime on a used rebuilt damper less i could not find a new one there are many good ones you just have to fit them somtimes just like on the ATI.s TCI.s .Power bonds .Romac. this is part of the engine building game stuff needs to be checked .all make very good dampers . the only time i seen the damper not have a press fit is when the eagle crank nose was under size and you can get a under size bore damper for this

HAVING AT ONE TIME been fitted to a stock GM crank means that it probably won't fit the crank in the engine today---almost every engine we see now has an aftermarket crank in it and with a replacement one means we can fit it to the proper tolerance---differance betwen engine builder/machinist and parts assemblers

Thanks Jerry and Pat for your input, but the fact is that we are answering fellows who have no access to the proper tools or machinery for building a motor. Most are working in a one-car or two-car garage at home and assembling parts and pieces that they have purchased from some supplier. I have read time and again in several different forums, where these fellows have purchased new components that aren't even close to fitting and the harmonic damper is one of the worst offenders in my opinion. Most of these kids will buy the cheapest pieces they can afford, so most of the pieces have an offshore origin where there is little or no quality control. If the damper hub is too tight, it's impossible to install the damper in their garage. If the damper hub is too loose, it will fail to make the mechanical couple that will transfer harmonics from the crank to the inertia ring. You guys work in an environment where you have the proper disassembly, machining and assembly tools to do the job properly the first time. These fellows who are asking these questions don't have that advantage. In that light, I feel that it is better to guide them to a source of parts that will work without bore gauges or micrometers.

well the fit is a big part of the damper working like said in post #2../..#5.. this is far from a new thing that just started .i been dealing with dampers making some of them to fit for over 20 years .the finsh size on many will not come to size just so they can be tuned in. many dampers do let you know with big Words saying HEY check fit Dummy this it will need to be Fitted!!!!!!. many parts coming from many places it,s nice to know there some meat on the bone so you can adjust the press fit. if you do not have the tools then they need to find a guy that can do the job just like grinding a crank or rebuilding a rod .but there is many Oem dapmers that will work with a good press that i have used from Pioneer PEP that over all looks to be fine for oem .i see this as no diffrent then fitting bearing s. failing to check the fit on the damper will cost