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Thread: ZZ 502 Running Hot?, then stalls - help!
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    jerry clayton's Avatar
    jerry clayton is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Feb 2006
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    Bartlett
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    2700 cfm air flow isn't enough---you need the tauris or lincoln Mk8 fan ( 4500/5000)

    This car probably has underdrive pulleys on it also ---there are some street rod drive kits that overdrive the accessories

  2. #2
    BWFitz's Avatar
    BWFitz is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Jun 2010
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    Tucson
    Car Year, Make, Model: 67 C-10 stepside
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    Your 502 uses the same surp setup as my 572 and requires a short nose reverse rotation pump. As you have described the symptoms, things are fine until the thermostat opens at 190 then quickly go to H**L in a handbasket. Your problem sounds like you have the incorrect rotation pump.

  3. #3
    techinspector1's Avatar
    techinspector1 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Zephyrhills, Florida, USA
    Car Year, Make, Model: '32 Henway
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    There are insulator spacers that you can buy commercially. There are even thick insulating gaskets. I have used these in the past, but wasn't particularly enamored with the results. I like to make my own from solid wood. Here's how....

    First, go online and order longer carburetor studs and two new carb gaskets...
    www.summitracing.com
    2- MRG55C Holley carb base gasket
    http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MRG-55C/
    1- AED-6125 long stud kit
    http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AED-6125/

    Go by any of the cabinet shops I have linked for you and pick up a nice, solid piece of hardwood (not particle board) about an inch thick or maybe a little less and large enough to make a carb spacer from.
    http://www.google.com/#hl=en&source=...be5f418103de0b

    If you have a drill press at home, you can make the spacer yourself. If not, ask the cabinet shop how much they would charge to hole-saw the throttle bore holes and drill the stud holes for you. Once the holes are sawed/drilled, trim the piece to size and install. It works better if you can leave it an inch or so wider and longer than the carb base. You can coat it inside and out with polyurethane varnish, but unless you have some on hand or know someone that has some, it's pretty expensive to buy just for this project. There's a possibility that some of the boat shops would coat it for you when they are doing another polyurethane varnish job. I've made and run these wood spacers before without coating them, but don't have any long-term results to report.

    Oh, and by the way, when this thing is in place, it becomes quite the "show and tell" piece.

    CAUTION....Resist the urge to make an open spacer unless the intake manifold is open also. If it's a dual-plane design, than make your spacer a 4-hole design. Bolting an open spacer onto a dual-plane manifold will make a single plane manifold out of it and you will not be happy with the reduced low-rpm performance.
    Last edited by techinspector1; 06-10-2010 at 04:32 PM.
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