Thread: BBC rod bolt torque /retourqe ????

Tweet

A few weeks ago-3/8 ARP rod bolts, started torqing them to 80# then something told me to stop and check the specs, Later to today I finally got back to it and find several opinions online, I trust the guys here more so....
A -100# ,80# or 60#???.
B -CAN the torqued ones be retorqued?
I'd like to get on this after lunch

I should mention that this motor is a 9:1 STREET motor w a 5500 red line. so ultra high Performance is not a goal. Daily driver durability + longevity w the ocassional burn out is.

all the 8740 3/8 ARP bolts with moly are 50 lbs for a std replacement rod bolt. cap screw are 60to65 when they use 8740 moly steel. if with oil TQ will be more lbs then with ARPmoly. if you have arp 2000 bolts there more TQ then the 8740 .if you are cranking the 3/8 8740 bolts to 80 with moly they are junk if they are a PROseries then the TQ is more . what bolts do you have ?

I was not sure so i called the balancer who installed them. He said I should be ok as they were a "retourqe" type whatever that means and to go to 65-70#.

Originally Posted by Dgas56

I was not sure so i called the balancer who installed them. He said I should be ok as they were a "retourqe" type whatever that means and to go to 65-70#.

well tell me are they a stock rod ? i telling you the TQ on them with moly there 50 if a H beam rod or a cap screw rod bolt there 60 to 65 there not any thing but that with moly lube and a 8740 bolt . i do them all the time

Yep, I am changing them, after all i have into this thing its best not to take chances. This thing will not see day light until spring now so there is time. MN sucks that way
Ok, NOW how about the bearings (Clevite HP) suppose those are screwed too?

Originally Posted by Dgas56

Yep, I am changing them, after all i have into this thing its best not to take chances. This thing will not see day light until spring now so there is time. MN sucks that way
Ok, NOW how about the bearings (Clevite HP) suppose those are screwed too?

well you need to tell me that you have stock crank ? if so clevite P are fine i never use a race bearing on a stock crank mild build .plane just do not need them and there more money you will never see the need . after you put new bolts in the rods they will need to be check there is a very good chance they can be out of round from the new bolts getting press in the rod . there is no shop around you that can do this for you ? if not put them in a box and send them to me i rebuild rods all the time and they will be dead on when i am done .if your asking if the bearing are hurt they should be ok .do you have stock rods ?

Stock "dogbone" rods and #7416 LS5 steel crank (wide seam) Have to use my guy as the entire short block assembly is custom balanced and blueprinted. I know,overkill but the original intent was for my drag Nova. Which sold during this build.This is gonna hurt. $$$
I have pretty much decided now to just shelve this motor again and use the done one (461 street motor) I did last year. It was what reminded me about my torque snafu because I did that one line after instruction line by the numbers. Something rang a bell and lit a bulb three rods in on motor #2.

well not realy .i blue print all the engine s i do as for true deck . bore.and rod housing size . valve set up stem set up length .valve spring set up. oil clearance.ring gap .degree cam . check timing pointer for TDC and set. and all specs stock or race . race stuff will see abit more work . your talking about the3/8 thumb rods? there ok rods for mild use . every thing gets balances as well to less bone stock stuff . i do not think of it as blue printing just the right way to build them. i have a set of thumb rods for a low buck blower engine build. it is a 461 hyd roller cam engine that i am doing machine work and build up right now for a customer. EZ build .i hope by the end of the week to be short blocking it. sunday is rod recon day