Thread: Big block valve train clatter
-
10-18-2009 10:03 PM #16
BTW it's interesting you mentioned 1 & 8 intake as the rockers that are close as those were the rockers that were hitting on mine! Thanks again!
-
Advertising
- Google Adsense
- REGISTERED USERS DO NOT SEE THIS AD
-
10-18-2009 10:07 PM #17
Last edited by pat mccarthy; 10-18-2009 at 10:13 PM.
Irish Diplomacy ..the ability to tell someone to go to Hell ,,So that they will look forward to to the trip
-
10-19-2009 05:39 PM #18
Hey Pat! I'm not sure what the heads and internals are, I was told that the 402 was stock to the truck and stock components. But some times you don't know unless you tear it down. I did adjust them and they don't hit the covers anymore, it idles really smooth so I don't think I have bent valves. I do think I might have found a weak spring today though, I slid the inner spring up and down with little force while it was installed. Do you know what the specs are on a stock dual spring? (open height, closed height, lb's of force measured)
-
10-19-2009 05:44 PM #19
you mean a single with a damper thats about 1.880 @ 100 lbsIrish Diplomacy ..the ability to tell someone to go to Hell ,,So that they will look forward to to the trip
-
10-19-2009 06:23 PM #20
Great! Thanks Pat! So I take it that the inner coil is the damper? That answers that. I know now for the next parts store run I need to make and it comes up again.
Thanks again!
-
10-19-2009 06:27 PM #21
-
10-19-2009 06:53 PM #22
Is there a big difference between the two? I ordered a dual spring and should have got a single with a damper.
-
10-19-2009 06:59 PM #23
Irish Diplomacy ..the ability to tell someone to go to Hell ,,So that they will look forward to to the trip
-
10-22-2009 11:55 PM #24
Sorry to bug you again Pat, or anyone who has ideas but I'm still having a knocking I can't figure out with my 402. I've checked out most everything we've discussed plus I've replaced a couple of valve springs that were under spec (but not by much). The timing chain has about 4 degrees of slop but I was thinking of checking it anyway. Also I was going to check if the cam has a retainer plate that could be getting loose. My thoughts are at the point of pulling the motor and tearing it down but until I find work I just can't afford to do it. My brothers a mechanic and mentioned the possibility of a stuck wrist pin, but wouldn't the knock be all the time? Help, I'm losing it.
-
10-23-2009 04:45 AM #25
your engine should not have a retainer plate stock? your engine could have a cam going bad or a rod bearing .or bad fule pump will make a hammer noise. bad rocker. bad piston, piston slap ? pistons domes hitting the chambers of the heads. lose auto fly wheel or crack in itIrish Diplomacy ..the ability to tell someone to go to Hell ,,So that they will look forward to to the trip
-
10-23-2009 09:20 AM #26
Once again----pull plug wires one at a time and see if there is a different sound on some cylinders
Rod bearing and wrist pin /piston noise will change--
My bet--dollar to a donut--you will find 2 rods bad on the same throw or 2 rods bad fed from the same main journal
-
10-23-2009 10:42 AM #27
Thanks Jerry, actually pulling the wires one at a time was one of the first things I tried. I learned that in HS auto mech. You know, back when we were hard on our hot rods, he must have thought it would have come in to use during our teen hood. However I might try it again just for the heck of it, not sure what else to do. I've driven it about 120 miles since (as it's my daily driver), I figured it should have puked something up by now if it were a main or a rod. Now if it's a wrist pin wouldn't it do it all the time especially when it's cold?
Welcome to CHR. I think that you need to hook up your vacuum advance. At part throttle when cruising you have less air and fuel in each cylinder, and the air-fuel mixture is not as densely packed...
MSD 8360 distributor vacuum advance