Thread: 468 Big Block Noise

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Originally Posted by ProStreetMonte

Thanks, Sorry guys they are the open chamber heads, wow never thought of it that way. but it does sound like a piston coming up and hitting the bottom of the head. I will update you on what I find when I tear it down.
Now, you have me going, what is involve with converting this cam and lifter to a roller retro. I would like to hear the motor shake a little bit harder. in doing this, should I find that the piston is hitting the head, are what are we talking about doing to raise the head up? I dont feel that it is the piston hitting the valve only because I think more problems would have already developed. such as bent valves when adjusting them. Let me know what your thoughts are.
I will keep you up to date when I remove the heads......
Again Thanks

you do not raise the head you cut the dome on the piston or open up the head chamber if the valve hit they get bent and would run very bad retro roller cam hyd need retro push rods and retro lifters thust button you may need better valve springs if you use a iron core cam you will not need to do any thing with the dist gear or fuel pump push rod if your using a mech pump i done many hyd rollers retros

ProStreetMonte,

Sorry to here about your build problem:
I had some of the same problems myself, about (3) years ago, I had my engine built by a machinist I thought new what they were doing. It was a big block ford with 13.1 compression and flat tapper cam, built to perform over 600 hp. Well after the start up and took it to a recommended mechanic with a dyno to tune it. He found right off that the cam had some lopes that were wore down, and he was sure that metal was being circulating around in the engine. Well he was so right.
Upset, yea, spent a lot of money yea, over 6 thousand. So I took the engine out and took the short block back to them. They broke it down wash it, clean it put new bearings, ect. ect.
Took it back to a real engine builder. and he broke it down again, found some other problems and rebuilt it with a roller cam and some other goodies. Another 4500.00.
A, I could have went off, and probably found myself in jail.
But I have more to lose than to gain, by that behavior. Life is to short to lose it over some jerks.

I would agree with others. Get the casting # off the heads and look up the chamber size to identify them first. Then pull the heads and inspect. If all appears well I would clay a piston and turn it over by hand and look to the clay for clearance issues. If there is evidence of a problem Id take heads to shop to disassemble heads and inspect all vavle to see if bent which often they will just a little and not noticed until removed from heads. Have vavle job done and replace necessary vavles. If clearance is an issue typically you can as Pat stated have pistons cut to accomodate is the cheapest way I know of. While its apart you can check out cam. Id be a little worried if it was me that a flat tapped cam sitting assembled for 2 years and not fired up that most all the cam lube break in fell off the cam and it is wiped as well.

Just suggestions to look at.