Thread: Any body used a gear drive before?

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What i really want is the jessel front drive, comes with the belt drive and front drive distributor that runs off of the belt drive, also have been looking at a crank trigger ignition, i allready have a 7AL3 box, i think that is what it is if i remember right, and it can be used with the msd crank trigger ignition, anybody ever run a crank trigger? what ahppens with the internals in the distributor?

Here is some of the ignition parts that i am thinking of using

crank trigger distributor
http://www.shopatron.com/product/pro...=MSD8558/424.0

crank trigger kit
http://www.shopatron.com/product/pro...=MSD8620/424.0

also on my 7al-3 box i forgot, it got toasted, no warranty because it was a swap meet buy, so for the ignition box i am not sure hich one i want to get, maybe sometime in the future i might want to go with a 200 shot of nos nothing to crazy so i would like an ignition that will accomadate the nos if i ever decide to do it. Has anybody ever had any experience with this ignition from msd? i have used an msd 6 box that i have had for years and havent had a problem with it,

go with a tru dbl roller

there is no need to run any crank tiggers for this build less you are going to run a dfi or race it. i have used MSD for 10 + years there stuff is as good or better then anything out there. the 6 AL works for the street. the 7AL box and the tigger with the belt drive would be for very limted street use and the front drive dist will get in the way of any belts all this stuff is for allout drag racing or if you want THE LOOk then there will be things that will need to be overcome

Pat is right , what you are wanting to use is all out drag racing equipment and the gear drive is a good set up for street or strip but they can be very loud, you can buy waht they call a quiet one but it is still loud. if you dont mind the whine get one.

NO SORRY no gear drive for any thing. if this build gets a soild roller cam with any lift the springs will get work on hard and with added harmonincs with the gear drive will be much harder on any parts. my goal when building a engine this to stop added harmoninces i would never added any part to any engine knowing it would add more harmonincs the ROLLMASTER is the chain sets i have use in many builds that what i would use or the belt

Glad I saw this thread - as I was about to order an E-brock quiet version (p/n7892) before I hung the rest of the car on the frame this winter. I'll just keep the Cloyes Tru-Roller set up and forget about it forever.

gear drive is a good set up for street or strip

Seems like most folks strongly disagree with that advice.

-double roller timing chain
-msd pro billet distributor
-digital 6 msd ignition box, has timing retard for starting and also for nitrous applications if i ever add it
i am trying to build this engine as cheap as possible but i have problems looking thru the catalogs aand seeing all that neat s--t!!!! lol thanks for keeping me on track guys

I ran a Jackson gear drive in my Monte and put 20k miles on it with no problems. The noise was OK at 19 years old but no more.

I have heard in here a lot about 'harmonics' but I have never seen any data or FFT of the torsional response in the cam system in any engine to verify exactly what that issue might be. Sure seems to be plausible in my gut but with all the oil lubrication there is also much squeeze damping residing inside the engine as well.

Anyhow I will not use a gear drive again ...............

Kitz

I bought an 83 monte carlo yesterday and gutted it today for the roll cage. I got the cage, seats, seat covers, 5 points, fuel cell, battery relocate kit, complete 9'' rear that i will tear down and have it narrowed but just for minitubs, got a good deal on the axle, $20 hehe, just need the drop spindles, ladder bars/coilovers etc.

Originally Posted by kitz

I ran a Jackson gear drive in my Monte and put 20k miles on it with no problems. The noise was OK at 19 years old but no more.

I have heard in here a lot about 'harmonics' but I have never seen any data or FFT of the torsional response in the cam system in any engine to verify exactly what that issue might be. Sure seems to be plausible in my gut but with all the oil lubrication there is also much squeeze damping residing inside the engine as well.

Anyhow I will not use a gear drive again ...............

Kitz

you need hard data well the last 470 bbc engine i work on the cam and roller lifters were trash engine and had a gear drive crank was crack thru out . I CAN SEND YOU 120 POUNDS OF $HIT that i do not see go bad is it seam to do when a gear drive is add to the mix that may not be your hard data .just heavy that engine did not leave with one on it when done .to say you can not VERIFY when they use strait cut teeth and have added lash you shoulds know well they will make added HARMONICS you can not say that strait cut teeth with added lash will not added to HARMONICS ?and oil should not be used to dampen a pice of $hit it would take very thick oil like 90 DATA if it sounds bad then i will say it is doing some thing in time thats not good for the engine. it is hard to keep alive valve train in a big roller engine valve springs cost is about 350. for ok springs and good soild roller lifter are 300 .why not try to get the most out of your parts ?THAT WOULD NOT BE A GEAR DRIVE and not use any thing that could not help the life span of the engine. to say that the data may not be there and any one still puts in the part then i would say you are not a engine builder that is not thinking much

use art morrision coil over's and ladder bars

Nothing beats a 4-link for versatility. Ladder bars are lousy on the street as they try to use the differential housing as a torsion bar. Yes, they are simple and easy to tune for the strip but a 4 link is good for both street and strip.
John

my last car had ladder bars on it and i have no complaints, worked very well for me so that is what i will be going with